looking for help to setup the new 3.2 scanner first time using the new one I'm use to 2.24 now all graphs are messed up looking to tune air and fuel with lc-2 wideband sensor. The tune is full stock right now engine has cold air and smaller pully colder plugs afr is way to low so need corrected. Ill post the stock tune if someone can help setup graphs I need to adjust air fuel possibly spark timing, pe afr and torque management.
Last edited by hiwiredjuice; 11-02-2016 at 06:47 AM.
Grand prix's are MAF based cars, there is no need to tune in speed density. I never did and doubt I ever will.
Stock they command a pretty rich air fuel ratio, use the tables in the PE to change it. I like to zero out the add vs rpm table and pick my target AFR because they command 12.4 but add to that with the ADD vs RPM table by time in PE and rpms and that's why it drops way down to around 10.7ish.
Somewhere around 11.2 to 11.5 is good for these engines. I have a feeling you'll be seeing alot of knock on this setup with no flow mods like a downpipe/plog or headers. If you do see alot of knock you run the risk of chipping a piston rather easy with the extra boost you are now running.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
take a look at these guides, they will help get you dialed in.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...tarted-Threads
I finally had a chance to get ahold of this car. removed torque management that's ok. cleared add vs rpm table in the PE table that is good. was getting a 6 deg knock on hard accel so changed timing by 4 deg. issue we are having is then afr sitting that low around 11.0 getting a hesitation. when he had the pully changed on sc he put 1 colder plug in it. I think the gap may be little to big thinking on dropping that down to smaller gap tomorrow whats your thoughts ill post logs and tunes we did. issue was present on stock tune.
I'd remove that pulley if you can only get 8-9 degrees on timing out of that thing, it's killing all the power for sure. As well as creating a ton of extra cylinder temp with the high EGT's that come with low timing and boost.
That or it needs exhaust flow mods stat, you should never be under 13-14 degrees of timing if you can help it.
Overall the timing table looks bad to me, way lower numbers than it should be. You can get away with far more timing out of boost on a 3800 to gain MPG back. Shoot, I ran nearly 37-38* in the cruising area's and had a nice slope down into boost. Don't take timing away everywhere if you have knock, only remove it where you see it. Otherwise you'll just make other parts of the timing curve worse for no reason and make it perform worse overall.
TM is still there on the engine side, set those 3 tables to the MAX limit of 640ft/lbs. Gap the plugs to .050-.055 instead of the factory .060. Don't use platinum plugs either, Iridium or Copper Core plugs only on a 3800. I hope it's running 91+ pump fuel too.
Post up the tune that is in the vehicle currently without all the others and do any of those logs show the hesitation at all??
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
yes he's running 91 oct and what 3 tables you talking about rpm vs gear, vs gear, vs rpm. didn't even see those lol. should I change the spark torque reduction to 0 to. what about the other tabs to. sorry torque management is little learning curve for me I usually do manual transmissions those easy set all to 0 lolOriginally Posted by 5FDP
I was thinking the pully may be doing some harm ill tell him to bring the other pully. I keep thinking on my car I have 02 eco with turbo and I have my plugs at .20 gap it helped allot but guess gap should be higher on super applications
also the pe afr tables do I 0 both tps and rpm add tables?
attached file with new changes reset spark tables to stock changed torque management and pe afr tables let me know if ok. ill check spark gap and likely change the pully tomorrow and do some pulls with it logging
Last edited by hiwiredjuice; 11-09-2016 at 10:46 PM.
Yeah, those are the 3 tables on the engine side. I don't really ever mess with the torque reduction table, this isn't a super high horsepower build so it don't to much matter.
Plugs and gap kind of go by application and what kind of boost levels you are seeing. The .060 gap is fine for stock engines with the 7ish psi of boost they see, once you start going higher or adding other mods like headers that's when lowering the gap is wanted. They do great with .050 to .055 gap on mildly modded engines and once you past say 12-13psi and getting pretty serious, you'd want like a .045 gap or so.
LS engines like around a .028 to .030ish gap for boost, which is only .010 lower than most from the factory just as another reference.
If you want to keep things simple just zero out the ADD vs RPM table and keep your PE AFR one set number. This way you have nothing else being able to change the AFR on you. Once it's set at 11.0 or 11.5 for example it won't change. The only thing that will change the end result on the fuel given is the MAF curve. If you aren't seeing your target AFR you'd either add to the MAF curve or subtract from the MAF curve to achive the AFR you need.
As for the timing, you can take from 0.08 to 0.44 and whatever the MAX rpm is 6400?? and straight up add 4 degrees of timing in the non boost area's. Then use the built in smooth selection tool to help smooth that curve out, click it 2-3 times and it'll create a great slope from cruise down into boost. The higher timing at highway speeds should help with mpg's just a hair.
Also because you set the AFR correction BASE table to zero's, that final timing number in the high octane table with no knock is what it should command. It no longer adds spark timing based on the commanded AFR anymore. From 2,000-6,400rpm and 0.68 to 0.92 cylinder airmass, try aiming for 13 degrees of timing to start with. If you can't do that with the pulley on the supercharger now, then it's time to pulley back up or add headers.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
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