I want to build a LQ4 With big shots of Nos what do i need to upgrade to build a good motor that wont die after 2 race
i will use it in MUD Drags
I want to build a LQ4 With big shots of Nos what do i need to upgrade to build a good motor that wont die after 2 race
i will use it in MUD Drags
How much is big shots?
Yeah, define that please.
For sure some nice pistons that could handle "big shots". Don't forget about your fuel system with whatever NOS kit you are using.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Pistons
Ring gaps
Bearing clearances
Arp rod bolts in factory rods
Good oil pump
Deep pan
Trunion upgrade
Nitrous cam
Decent harmonic damper (sfi rated)
I'd probably hit that with a progressive or staged 200-225 shot and see how long the rods can hang on 😆 I don't play with nitrous anymore because it's still just about non existent in my area. Everyone builds stuff differently so take my mods with a grain of salt.
If you can forged rods would be a great upgrade and just increase durability (get them with arp2000 fasteners or equivalent grade from rod mfg)
Rod bolts is a scam lol.
When have you ever heard of someone saying, my rod bolt failed and junked my engine.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Hahaha funny story, we did hit the nitrous once in a burnout for fun @ 100 shot and I had complete rod Carnage with the exception of one just about perfect rod cap and two bolt heads laying in the pan haha.
Only once though. Every other time was total annihilation. I just upgrade them to increase the clamping consistency I know it ain't no cure. The cap fractures or the neck of the rod usually decides it's had enough. I've had 2 rods crack the cap into pieces, 1 bent rod in the neck, and 4 different times I broke it off be the journal as it necks down. Like you say typically a material failure.
Why is it that a stock engine can go from 350 to 1000 horsepower on boost, but a nitrous engine can't.
If the shot is progressive I don't see the difference from the point of view of the force * area on the piston.
It must have something to do with the expansion rate of the gasses ? Never looked into it
Nitrous is an instant hit to the piston. Rod and bearings take a lot of force when you hit the button. Turbo and supercharger ramp up power.
Yeah ive seen ls engines hold up pretty well to nitrous on the sbe but more ring gap with a progressive shot we have one that gets a 300 shot almost every week but when they fail its never been because a stretched rod bolt
thats why i said progressive shot. It comes on like boost does. You can't even tell the difference when its pulled off right. Nobody can.... thats why I love it as a stealth installation.
But we only use 150-290 progressive whereas with boost its more like 500-700+ easily double the power of nitrous
thank you this makes a lot of sense Didn't want to unnecessarily bump thread. I knew about high EGP piston cushion in theory but wasn't aware it had such real world implications (as an empirical (experimental) situation is readily represented and pointed out) with the rod caps.
Last edited by kingtal0n; 08-19-2018 at 12:15 AM.
250-300 shot one hit his to mutch better progressive
i would use 275 no issues in stock form, using progressive controller or dual fogger setup, 125 out of the hole plus 150 2nd shot. Stand alone fuel system for nos, with vp09-vp12, use the fuel pressure switch to be safe in case low fuel pressure, bottle heater, good to go, just dial your jets for correct mixture and optimize timing advance.
how mutch fuel pressure
All the pressure
We are spraying a 5.3 motor with a random cam we bought used. 340 shot direct port setup e85 fuel. no ramp just full hit at 3500 rpm.
so far have ran over 20 passes and still holding together. quarter mile 9.9 with 280 shot.
the timing is really low on the initial hit and i ramp it up quickly as the rpm rises.
over 200,000 miles on motor
bottom end stock
ring gap stock
Na and nitrous motors back load the rods which puts pressure on the caps. Boosted motors tend to make the rod ride the crank due to more cylinder pressure in every stage of the cycle. I've lost more stock rods to cap issues in na than rods period in boosted motors. Jm2c
Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 08-18-2018 at 06:20 PM.