New tuner arrived. First idle log. Please check it out!
hey everyone. noob here. i finally got my first idle log. anyway for you guys to check it out and see what i need to change to clean up the idle. i dont have my WB installed yet and not driving it for the rest of the year but would like to get the idle better so i can run it everyonce in awhile this winter.
list mods please and what issues are you having? are you going to go maf tune or ve tune? right off the bat your running lean as hell so verify you do not have any vac leaks anywhere and if all is well on that part id add at least 20% (1.2) to your maf or ve chart which ever you are going to use. if your cammed id bump that idle up at least 150rpm across the board and increase idle timing to around 20-22 degrees. bump up the effective area max fail from 60 to 200.
maf only tune - set dynamic airflow high rpm disable to 200 rpm and re enable to 100
ve only tune - disable maf hz in engine diag and set dtc's p0101,p0102,p0103 to mil of first error/un check ses light box, copy high octane to low octane - i dont like ve on these ecms due to it not being a true ve chart because it deals with coefficients and nonsense so i run maf only unless your going to upgrade to a 2 bar os in which you then get a true ve chart
1st log had open loop fault
3rd log has closed loop fault
what dtc's do you have?
The E38 has a 2009.5 G8 GXP OS M6 (TH400). Cam is 226/237 .598/.638 113+4. 6.0 SBE with l92 heads with a truck intake and stainless valves Stock heads CAI, LT headers. Im aware i am running extremely lean and its dumping so much fuel at idle. no vacuum leaks, no exhaust leaks present. I plan on running idle at around 850-925rpm. I want to do MAF tune but been reading that its better to do SD for the e38's. Im still learning and doing countless hours of recon and its been a learning experience, but where are some of these tables/charts located at? Which ones am i mostly going to be focusing on for not only idle tuning but cruising and WOT?
DTC's i still need to go through and turn some off but the main ones for engine are. P0315, P0330, P0106, all from the 3rd log, i dont think the p0106 was on the 1st, and rear O2 sensors...(not running any). Everything else is all clutch related, Fans, fuel level etc.
nice mods list. ve or maf its personal preference really - i haven't had any issues with maf only but as always to each their own plus like i said easier not to deal with the coefficients. always get a wideband o2 sensor for wot fueling. yeah theres always something new to learn that's for damn sure lol. idle will be focused primarily on the idle tab - rpm and airflow sub sections and the lower portions of maf or either vve. for idle,p/t and wot fueling will all depend on which airflow model your going to go with maf or ve - maf is (airflow/general) but the vve charts are located in edit - virtual volume efficiency - and when you paste the numbers if you'll have to hit calculate coefficients which in turn will change some of the numbers you just put it to make the coefficient number (which is why i hate it or upgrade to a 2 bar os but you'll need a 2 bar map to have it run right) - you will have to set up histograms plotting against which ever you choose to run and log either open loop with fuel trims shut off against afr error or against fuel trims in closed loop
Awesome ill start there in the idle tab and deal with the other stuff in the spring. so let me get this straight. Add 20% to IDLE>AIRFLOW>AIRFLOW FINAL MINIMUM? Add 20-22* in timing should go to SPARK>ADVANCE>IDLE SPARK ADVANCE>BASE?
no add 20% to your maf or vve - id do maf first just to start out and get those trims down - timing yes i would make it 20 or 22 degrees from .60 cylinder airmass to 1600 rpm
if it starts and runs ok i wouldn't touch any one those yet (idle sections) until you get the trims inline - if it has a hard time starting id add 1-2 g/s of air to the cranking and base running air flow - if the throttle starts to hang you have too much idle airflow
fueling will always be done in maf or vve (which ever you choose to run)
the idle portion will be for starting the car and helping it not fall on its face during throttle blips or coastdowns
also, always save new files and label them differently so youll always have a good working back up incase you change something and the car doesnt like and forgot what you changed
ENGINE>AIRFLOW>GENERAL> MAF CALIBRATION> AIRFLOW VS FREQUENCY? sorry im still trying to figure out what everything does in the editor. and thanks for your input
yeah man no worries we are all here to help out
yes thats correct
i can send you my log and my buddies ls1 log if you want so you can see how the scanner works and shit and sorta how to set up the scanner
youll have to make changes according to what your ecm allows but you'll get the idea
Here yeah go
1st file is just a idle log for my buddies ls1
2nd file is the layout - after you open the log file - open the layout for it so its reads correct because i think by default it opens as my lsj
3rd file is my lsj log
4th are the channel pids (ls1)
your gen 4 so your ecm will have different pids than the gen 3 so if you want to use it some pids may not show up for you
is it black or red?
thats coming up for me as a ls3,l99 which would be a 1 bar
your map read 100kpa at key on which is normal for living at around sea level
i would agree with tcss07. if it was mine i would run it in maf only mode and dial that in. add 20% of fuel to get the trims down to around 0 and then fine tune from there. also bumping the timing to around 21 degrees is a good idea. tcss07 whats your name and what part of chicago are you by???
oh nice im Mike im out in elgin. i like reading your replies cause your info you give is pretty much the same way i like to do stuff as well. i dont have nearly half the experience as you but am learning as i go.
nice to meet you mike and yeah im always learning also - theres always something to learn and there's alot of knowledgeable people on these forums
i like to read around and see how others like to do things as well and offer my input to help as well and also to help myself just in case someone thought/does things in different ways about tuning that i dont thats more effective
well im always around if you have any questions feel free to pm me and if you do sorry if it takes a day or 2 cant live on here ... the wifey gets pissed lol
what vehicle do you have? i have a little 2.0 lsj s/c pushing out over 400hp which isnt to shabby and can hold its own but doesn't have much on you built v8 guys or crazy supercharger/turbo builds lol - im running 80# injectors on pump pushing static lol and my buddies ls1 is pretty redick as well lol - got that running pretty well hes running 54# injectors and hes still n/a but i had to add so much air for him - shes a thirsty whore lol
i prefer maf over ve just because it seems to be a little of a smoother ride imo - dont get me wrong ve mode is a lot more crisp on the throttle but it tends to make things a little iffy imo for driving especially cammed but thats me
I have a cammed and stalled g8 I recently put a flex sensor on it and decapped stock injectors it has a aeromotive 325 pump in the tank. It’s running a tune by a well known g8 tuner but I like to tinker around with it and figure out what stuff does what.
Hey everyone. i did some adjustments today. idle seem alittle better but its hard to stay running without having to hold pedal down for a few. Also idle is bouncing a quite a bit. I adjusted Over/under speed. Base running airflow, MAF Cali, and spark tables. What am i missing?
fuel trims are so much better than before - practically spot on - shoot for -5 ltft - but your braf still needs more air if your still having idle issues - dont worry if the numbers seem to be high - in the braf change the units to g/s and set the 200-1200 rpm in all gears to 9g/s and see how the idle is then - if it hangs then there is to much and if it still stumbles then its still not enough and you can use more idle spark advance set it to 22 degrees from .60 cylinder air mass to 1200 rpm
spark is bouncing all over because your idle airflow is still not correct and the ecm is controlling idle through spark mostly to compensate for it
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