m1 you have to blip, d5 you don't
m1 you have to blip, d5 you don't
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
OK change enable airflow back to .12 lb and do a compare make sure it's exact. Then flash and test! This will rule out that setting. In fact you could put half the settings back but you did a lot between these two tunes.
I tried to match my tune with yours changing everything even remotely possible. It's not working yet I am wondering if you have a setting I don't....
Last edited by blackbolt22; 08-12-2019 at 07:56 PM.
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
I didn't have any luck. I might try some more tomorrow but it's getting late and it's all I've messed with for hours when I got home..
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
Last edited by GapRider; 08-13-2019 at 05:02 AM.
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
It's not the Startup Idle Adders, not for me anyways. My test tune has a ton of stuff from yours copied, not just values but axis as well. I made it where nothing is 'green' when comparing.
I copied everything from Idle>General,RPM,Airflow,Torque (includes startup adders), Everything under your VCT settings, most of the spark stuff you mentioned+everything else that's normally changed, torque ratios, driver demand, and even your speed density settings lol.
Everything that could have been even remotely a chance I copied..
Now I do see some differences in weird places between our tunes. For example you have Oscillation switch Enabled and under Spark>Advance you have some settings I haven't tried like: Derivative and Proportional Gains, Cylinder Pressure Temp modifier, and Idle RPM Error. That last one, Idle RPM Error, you have it zero'd out and mine is stock.. I'm thinking your base changes in conjunction with the dashpot settings are allowing something to happen. It's like a combination key lol.
Trust me when I say I was on a rampage copying all of your values + axis in a hail mary to find the setting.. My thought was do a large batch each time and when it occurs I can know what worked but as mentioned before what if it's a combination of things. You hold the key to finding out honestly because you got it working.. for me it's never worked.
Can you do a cold start log and test to be sure no-blip works from a cold start? How about if you take a stock file, copy all of your recommended settings, then flash it and let us know if no-blip works. Don't change anything that doesn't need to be changed!
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
I hate you did all that work and still no answer.
I'm at work so I'll have to be at home to look at tune stuff, if I have time I'll try starting from stock file like you asked.
I don't remember ever changing derivative and proportional gains but that could be different in our two stock tunes.
I've heard that #8 cyl is a problem with these engines so I removed cyl to cyl adjustment for spark and fuel for #8.
I agree with your divide and conquer approach, it's too time consuming to do only one change at a time.
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
I found the first log where I see cold start in dashpot and the last log where I still see RPM ctrl start, it's between these two
m1 and m4a
compare m1 to m4a.JPG
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
I'll load m2 and log startup in the morning to try to narrow down the search
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
looked at more logs and no blip starts with m2 where I first set dashpot enable to 0. since that alone wasn't the answer it's going to be hard to find
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
That's why I suggested to start with a stock tune then mod it up only with the core ghost cam settings. Maybe it will still work for you. If it does post it please and I'll try it on mine. If not I saved your M2 tune and can compare and add in changes with you so we can speed up finding what the second variable is.
Also something else just occured to me... maybe it's something in my tune preventing it since I'm integrating your settings in. If you can post up a stock tune that you modified only for ghost cam and it works with dashpot immediately then i'll do up a stock one on my end with just your GC settings. Either way we will find what TO or NOT to do lol.!!
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
I'm not sure where to go on that one, I have no other changes from stock except:
- what I need to support the stuff I have - long tubes(transport delay), off road X(cat stuff), T56(ratios etc)
- dashpot and cam
- cyl 8 stuff
That list I made in post 182 was all differences from stock tune I saw in the compare except for the req'd stuff mentioned above.
If I mod a stock tune with cam and dashpot changes alone the car will balk cuz cat and tranny stuff I think.
Not sure what to do right now.
just checked m2 to stock compare, I see I made changes to:
Engine>Fuel>Cutoff,DFCO>RPM Limits
Engine>Fuel>Cutoff,DFCO>Deceleration Fuel Cutoff
Last edited by GapRider; 08-14-2019 at 05:59 PM.
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
As far as Cat/Trans/Etc... A simple startup and run for 5 seconds will reveal whether dashpot is active immediately or not. I would take a stock tune and only try to get it to go into dashpot right away, nevermind all the other settings, even leave out the VCT changes... Your car might go into dashpot with just your dashpot settings and that would tell us plenty if it didn't!
When I get time I'll try some more too but I've never been able to get it to work so I don't really hold the key...
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
Gotcha. I?m out of town this weekend but will work in on this next week
test1 test2 compare.JPG
These changes caused RPM ctrl instead of dashpot ctrl for Idle Speed Control Mode
- Idle Dashpot Neutral mult from 1 to 0
- Idle Dashpot minimum vs desired Idle RPM to 0
test1 has RPM ctrl
test2 has dashpot ctrl
Last edited by GapRider; 08-20-2019 at 07:29 PM.
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
This is good that you figured out another requirement but it's not the only settings that make it work. For example earlier you stated setting Enable Airflow from .12 to 0 made it go into dashpot instead of rpm ctrl but there are numerous other changes between your m1 and m2 tunes however Neutral mult and dashpot minimum were already set right. In other words m1 didn't work with dashpot yet had Neutral Multiplier and Dashpot minimum settings that you have in m4 test2.
The only way to isolate the required settings is to start with a stock tune, copy the whole airflow table and any other tables in the Idle category you think are required, flash, and simply start the car. It literally would take 5 minutes.
If you copy everything in Idle>General,RPM,Airflow,Torque and it works on those sole settings alone in a stock tune, then it's something to do with my car/strategy because I did ALL of those from the one you said worked and much much more and still didn't work lol
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
OK, let me do some more digging. I'm hoping that finally knowing which combination of parameters causes dashpot control, we will be able to figure out what the actual required function/situation is, ie dashpot airflow allowed/requested is above idle airflow required or something like that.
2019 C7 Stingray M7 - long tube headers, 6.30/6.22 226/238 cam, supporting stuff, DOD and VVT delete.
Stock everything else
Dashpot is the only way however it's not the best for stability. If you notice Emissions Control obeys the distance tables allowing for major overlap AND has the benefit of RPM Ctrl which is far more stable then Dashpot!! It's too bad the emissions entry/exit parameters are not available in HPT..... or a parameter to turn on obey distance tables in optimal stability+rpm control........
Emissions Control + RPM Ctrl = Obeys distance tables
Optimal Stability + RPM Ctrl = Does NOT obey distance tables..
Optimal Stability + Dashpot = Obeys distance tables.
Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:
(+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
(--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
__________________________________________________ ________
2014 Mustang GT Premium. VMP Gen2R Supercharged with an FTI 3000rpm Converter. JLT, BMR, Steeda, Viking, etc.
Don't fix it if it ain't broken | Maximum effort gets maximum results
hello im trying to create the ghost cam effect on a 2013 v6 , the car chops great after bliping the throttle but the issue is when driving then coasting when the rpm reaches idle the car starts jerking around
violently how can i fix this
i had an issue where it started hunting for rpm when i set the rpm at 850 it would jump to 1000 then go down , i fixed this by setting the rpm to 1250 but i would love to be able to set it at 850ghost cam .hptGHOST CAM WORK.hpl
Your tables and cells are interpolating.
Lower your idle RPM to 900.
Set Minimum VSS to 0 MPH
Here are some more changes.
Rescale the tables and change the values of the cells. If you want to use IVO -50 EVC 30, you can try it. I think it's too much overlap for it to idle stable. I'd try IVO -40, EVC 15 or somewhere around those degrees. The angles and distances I changed will help out with cruising and help out your MPG, giving you the chop at idle and a smooth, more efficient driving.
VCTchanges.PNG