I have raised the values and tried maxing them out. I haven't notice much difference besides if you max out the decreasing torque table you get extremely annoying and bad NVH problems from the driveline when coasting/cruising, when you let off the wheels immediately being to drive the engine it takes up the backlash in the pinion and makes the awful extremely annoying clunk that makes the car feel cheap a lot more evident.
In my case I do acknowledge we can get higher average timing at idle, it has worked a little for me. By adjusting the idle/low airmass cells (<1000 rpms/<300grams/<70kPa) by about 75ft lbs and then slowly not decreasing as much as you get higher on spark (like how 32vape suggested) it works to bring idle up to about 10-15 sometimes 20, I think given the cam we need above 30 to ensure complete combustion but that is my speculation with no evidence or proof (we dont' have combustion analyzers or in cylinder pressure testers). I think if I go any more above about 100 ft lbs decrease it screws up the speed control and the idle speed will slowly start oscillating.
I still am a really firm believer and it seems like common sense that the torque tables do not need adjusting. If the cam is less efficient at lower rpms because the intake valve is open too long and its allowing fresh air charge to bleed off back into the intake manifold then the MAP and MAF should pick this up as a lower airmass in the cylinder and the torque table should reference a lower cylinder airmass in its tables and indicate a torque value less than stock and everything should be fine. I don't know maybe when you have a bigger cam than stock with the longer exhaust duration and late exhaust valve closure it maybe needs even more reduction in virtual torque than what's on the stock tables? since the stock tables are obviously designed with the stock cam? So maybe I am not really correct in my assumption?