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Thread: LS2 E40 Help with LS3 MAF, FIC1000, Vortech Trying to get car to Dyno for tune.

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    LS2 E40 Help with LS3 MAF, FIC1000, Vortech Trying to get car to Dyno for tune.

    As the title says. I'm trying to get my 03 Lexus IS300 to where its safe to drive to get tuned as long as I stay out of boost. I've been trying to mess with the tune for almost a year now and finally got it running but my STFT are all over the place and I'm not sure that I scaled my FIC injectors correctly. Current mods are a stock LS2 long block with BTR3 cam, T56, long tube headers, 3" no cats all the way back, 540lph fuel pump, FIC1000 injectors, boost referenced fuel pressure regulator with return, LS3 MAF with 100mm tube, Vortech supercharger pulleyed to 15lbs. Water/Meth 1250cc spray. I currently have the fuel pressure at 43.5 psi. Also I moved the IAT sensor to the intake behind the throttle body. I have attached my tune and the first 2 logs. I have read this forum till my eyes turn red and still not making much progress. I don't have a wideband/AFR gauge to use so I know I'm not going to get that good of results. I just want to be able to drive it about 20 miles to get to the tuner. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    No, injector data is not right for that type of regulator. Do you have the datasheet for them?

    Are you sure you don't have the left and right O2s swapped side to side? Cause it kinda looks like B1 trims pull fuel and B2 goes lean, and vice versa. Injector harness plugs swapped can have the same effect.

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    Here is the excel sheet I got from their web site.
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    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    The data in their file is assuming 58psi non-referenced, so to get the real data for 43.5/referenced required conversion (and a trip to the website to get the original file that hadn't had the non-E40 tables removed!).

    Offset vs Vac vs Volts was taken from the midpoint of these two columns:
    offset-298kpa.png

    Dunno how it ended up with some of those changes, they will cause issues. The youtube guides that recommend changing the Open Loop and Open Loop Gains tables to all 1's do not account for these weird one-offs that use 10.0/0.1. The Stoich was weird, it was double 15.something, not double 14.7. There were a few things missed in the DTC list, and some changes I made there are just personal preference (P0116/P0128 are evil).

    changes.png

    Do you not have any flavor of VSS wired in at all? If you do, change P0502/P0503 back to MIL On Second like stock.


    You will need to write this file, can't just copy over differences as there are changes that latest versions of the Editor don't recognize (see Exhaust tab in screenshot above). Write Calibration is fine, no need for Write Entire.

    Jacobs LS2 IS300 NormalTune_-FIClinic1000Short-43.5psi-referenced.hpt

    You will sooner than later need to change it to the 2bar OS, and that will require Write Entire.

  5. #5
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    Oh, and your MAF & Main VE are very weird, you may need to start over on those if any changes were made with that wrong injector data in place.

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    Thanks, I will try to load this when I get home and see how everything goes. The MAF data I got from a stock LS3 file. I had originally doubled the Stoich but the car was really rich so I though I could add more air in that way but I guess not. Also, I do have a VSS in the trans but I don't have it hooked up to my speedometer yet since this is in a Lexus as I'm still working on the wiring.

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    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    The ECM needs to see vehicle speed, even if that's not the source of your signal to the cluster. Lots of stuff out there uses averaged wheel speeds sent over CAN for the speedo.

    The MAF curve is not plug-and-play just because it's the same physical sensor. You do need to check that the IAT scaling is correct, find a stock tune file from whatever used that MAF and compare/convert if different. Generally GM used 100K thermistors for everything (IAT/ambient/ECT/etc.), except when they didn't.

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    I realize that the MAF isn't the same, I'm using the LS3 card style now and not the stock LS2 meter. I repinned the harness with the new plug. Then I took the data from a LS3 file for the MAF and scaled it to the E40 table. I didn't do anything to the IAT table because I installed a separate sensor in the intake so I no long get the reading from the MAF and I wasn't sure what to do there. Again though I will upload your file when I get home. I really appreciate your assistance.

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    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    The MAF curve from the other file will not be anywhere close to correct for what you have it installed in now. The MAF curve is not specific to the sensor, it's specific to the engine, and the tube diameter, and the airflow for a given frequency. It does not carry over once you've put it in something other than what it came in, with everything that original application used, in the same place, of the same size, with the same bends in the air duct, and so on.

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    Okay, I finally got it your changes uploaded and made some changes to the IAT table, it now reads within 1 degree of outside temp after the car had been sitting all day. Not sure how correct it is throughout the rest of the table, but its a start. Also, the car seems to idle a lot better. I didn't drive it yet as I figured I would see what you thought of the log files. I let it idle for a few minutes and revved it a little, then turned it off and restarted. It started great both times and I created another log file. Thanks again

  11. #11
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    I sure don't like the way there's a huge split between bank 1 & bank 2. They should be doing about the same on O2s and trims and they look like they're installed in two separate engines.

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    I changed a lot of the tune and took it for a little drive. I have attached a log. Does this look any better or does it look safe enough to drive to the tuner if I stay out of boost? Thanks again
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Not trying to be rude...but, why are we hitting 6,500+ RPM and THEN asking if it is "safe" to drive to the tuner? Stop that lol. Idle and part throttle cruising is all you need for now, since that is all you'll need to get to the tuner.

    Unless you are also paying the tuner for diag/repair/install of parts, you will want to fix whatever issue(s) B2S1(or both) is/are having.
    You are hitting the airflow and MAF Hz limit of this computer. I don't think a bigger MAF tube will really help any more than it already is. Your tuner should handle this by using the 2bar OS and a VE only tune, but you will need to supply a 2bar MAP sensor with matching sensor data. (Again, unless you are paying the tuner to do these things for you.)
    Your IAT sensor(and most sensors) have specific and defined data. Easiest thing to do is find the part # of the sensor you're using and pull the IAT data from a stock tune file that uses that specific part #, do not just guess at it. Rife/Motion sells compatible sensors and supplies sensor data you can input into your file as well, FYI.

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    I appreciate the response. It was a little tempting to get in the throttle a few times on the short drive I took of about a 1/2 mile. I did input the data from the IAT sensor as well as the MAF. I just wanted to make sure if I drove it there under the current circumstances that I wasn't washing the cylinder walls down or running way to lean. I have about a 25 mile highway drive next week. I could have it towed if need be but would rather not. As far as B2S1, I'm not totally sure what's going on other than possibly a bad O2, I had this problem before then replaced the sensors and it was fine. After a week of driving it started again so I do know if it's a junk sensor or the tune is so off that it's causing it. Part of the time the log looks okay, no? The wiring is correct to the O2s and the injectors. No vacuum leaks... so I'm at a loss of what else it could be.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    I sure don't like the way there's a huge split between bank 1 & bank 2. They should be doing about the same on O2s and trims and they look like they're installed in two separate engines.
    Does this look better? Apparently I had some of the settings off in the Diag. tab for the O2 sensor heater, ect.... I don't have any cats or rear 02's of course. Which ones do you recommend that I have set as No Error Reported, MIL on Second, ect? Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  16. #16
    Looks like a possible ground issue with the O2 sensor.