Is it the same kind of turbocharger?
Here's what you do - undo everything you have done to the tune that ran just fine on the old turbo.
1. Check your wastegate actuator rod preload, should be about the same as the old one. Doesn't have to be that precise, but a good thing to check so it's not way off.
- Under airflow / turbocharger tab
3. Set your whole Base DC table to 0 and copy to Base DC Scav (my car doesn't use the Base DC Scav table at all so i just have it set at 0 all the time). Any value here below 0 or above 100 make no sense.
4. Make sure your underboost/overboost tables under diagnostics are not in your way.
5. Make a wide open throttle pull in a higher gear, 3rd for example, from very low RPM to the redline and log. You should see some amount of boost pressure - that's your wastegate spring boost pressure.
- Under airflow / turbocharger tab, again
6. Fill out the "Wastegate Open Boost" table at your barometric pressure (which i assume is 100 kPa unless you live on a mountain) to the measured wastegate spring boost pressure and guesstimate the values below.
For example - if the open pressure is 130 kPa at 100 kPa barometric, your open pressure at 65 kPa barometric would be 130 - (100 - 65) = 95 kPa.
7. Set the Test DC value to 10%, repeat the pull, make note of the boost you got, repeat for 20% 30% and so on up to about 1.2 bar of boost, but don't go over it. And set Test Enable to, well, enabled.
You use the values here to fill out the Base DC table, a pressure ratio of 2 is 2 times barometric pressure, pressure ratio of 2.5 is 2.5 times barometric pressure and so on. Create a math parameter in the log to figure out what the pressure ratio is.
Fill out the Base DC table according to the measured numbers. You can guess the values you didn't hit, that's fine, a PID loop in the ECU will fix small errors later anyway.
- Under Torque Management / SCTC Boost Control
8. When you're done filling out the Base DC table, set your Boost Max Limit to something just barely above the wastegate spring boost pressure and test it out!
You control the boost by RPM in the Knock Airmass table, don't keep it set to 1 g across! That's your Cylinder Airmass from the log file. It's the maximum value your ECU tries to reach. The Spark Retard axis is a protection that automatically changes the target airmass depending on how much knock you get.
When you set that up correctly, you can increase the whole Boost Max Limit table to 250 kPa and the ECU will automatically obey the turbo overspeed and efficiency tables, and vary the boost according to the ambient pressure and temperature and whatever.
The stock turbocharger does not like too much boost, my knock airmass table on the stock turbo with some mods looked like this, you can start from here
5uGWX2Da2d.png
This is a general guide, and can be used for any kind of turbocharger install on your car! Worked fine for me installing a bigger unit.
Oh, and your Peak Torque, Brake Torque and Overboost tables can be set up to these values (Nm) across the range, don't overdo them, there's no point unless something is limiting you.
201.75 220.5 232.75 241.75 250 257 263 267.75 272.5 276.5 278.25 278.75 276 270 248.5 212.25
Add these to your log, too
Air-Fuel Ratio Commanded
Injector Pulse Width Bank 1 - used for Injector Duty Cycle math parameter, that one should never go above about 95%