you ever get that alt up and running?
you ever get that alt up and running?
Some of these Gen 4's are controlled by the BCM. You need to either change/modify the alt or use a signal gen
https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/page...D=108&CDpath=4
just a quick update on the c7 fan upgrade on the c6. just back from the 2nd track day, I had also moved to an oil cooler in the radiator end tank so much more heat to dissipate, but it worked flawless. 4 sec a faster lap time due to more seat time and able to push harder. no Temps were not a limitation at all, just brakes. able to run fast laps as long as I wanted and coolent never went above 195 and oil 270. stock c6 fan and front mount oil cooler with a spa fan on it, 2 fast laps and coolent was 220-230 oil over 300.
over all this is a sweet mod with oem level reliability for a 200$ brushless fan.
very happy and for anyone that was wondering 1:21.1 at the FIRM in FL on street tires. it did well for my low skill level, definitely quick enough to tax the cooling system.
Hello after a year,
Yes Alt was in back in January but unfortunately engine had a catastrophic failure, 6 broken pistons and damaged heads 💔, prior to this i accidentally left the MAP sensor unhooked, i did observed the unstable AFR but didn't investigated it because of the massive idle timing retard to contol the cam chop, it took one test dive to say goodbye to the engine, slight pinging and you know the rest
So building it bigger and better was the answer
Had a problem with Pistons, wiesco had a backlog of almost 9 months same with summitracing Pistons, Diamond fulfilled my order with 4, machine shop tool about 2.5 months to finishthe block, undersize/std size bearings took a month to arrive and finalize the assembly
Darton dry sleeves
4 inch lunati signature crankshaft rated 1500hp
Callies Xtreme rods rated 1800hp
Diamond Pistons LS2K rated 2000hp
Lingenfelter GT9 cam
Johnson 2116lsr lifters
Yellaterra ultralite rockers
Upgraded twin clutch to 1000hp
Holley terminator HP or x (soon)
ARP up and bottom studs & hardware
Will be done with it in a 2 weeks hopefully, waiting for a custom length ⅜ pushrods to arrive
Will let you know about the actual draw soon!
C5/6 have the same self regualted alternators you can tell by the 4 pin connector, these can be ran by a single wire only it will hold the voltage at 14.2 all the time, factory lets the alt monitor the batt voltage through a sensing wire that goes back to the batt independently, it allows the alt to reduce the voltage to 12.9-13.1 when output isn't needed, the purpose is to reduce the load/fuel consumption
On gen v lt trucks & c7 vetts, alt is extranally controlled by the bcm it was made this way to bump up the amp/voltage immediately to accommodate for the EPS electric power steering demand without overloading the battery
These 2 pin alternators can be easily retrofitted with the old 4 pin, it will max out the output. The diagnostic/command wire comming from the bcm will be unused. If not terminated with a resistor it will generate obnoxious DTCs
there is a small difference between the c5 and c6 alt. you'll have to Google it, but c5 you should buy from gm, or have yours rebuild. not a auto parts store one. something throws codes, don't remember.
the c6 one is a pretty bad alt by today's standards, but it is 4 wire, one being a sense at the bcm. because running thru the horrible factory wiring, you get big voltage drops from the alt to bcm by the time it gets there.
there's a few newer style 2 pin all, the best is the 220amp from the trucks, it's a 6 pole. it will default to 13. 8v without any wires. puts out 100amps at idle with under drive pulleys rock solid. some 2 wire can replace the reg with a 4 but the good 6 pole 220amp can't be as of the last time I looked. so you need an external pwm box to adjust voltage under or over default if you ecm won't do it. (ebay 20$) I was able on my c6 to build a sort of big 3 wiring kit, and not have the voltage drop. so full 100amp load at idle is 13.8 at the alt lug, and still 13.5 at the bcm. so while it's a bit low, I have a agm battery that likes different charge voltage anyways, and the pwm box on the shelf. I haven't felt the need to wire it in yet but I do want to just because.
Yes you're righ there's difference, latest Gm PN is compatible with both, and they pushed the rating to
145A if I'm not mistaken, still not enough
The 220A alternator is intended to support the newer brushless fans, to my knowledge system is programmed to limit fans speed according to available voltage/thermal degradation, in other words ecu will not command maximum speed at idle.
By all means 100A at idle is no joke, thats more than double your OE alt output, do you have an amp clamp to do load test?
I do have a amp clamp. this is at idle, with a 10% under drive crank pulley and stock pulley that come on the alt.
it's upside down lol but that's 101amps
13534128 is the oe part number. I got mine off ebay for 125$ cause it was just a test kinda thing. wasn't sure it would fit.
they are not a direct fit in a c5/c6 or the one year z28 that uses the wider spacing mounting bolts. it's a mod to fit for those but it literally fits every other gm bracket from the mid 90s to now.
I believe mechman will build one in a direct bolt on case, just make sure it's a 6 pole, that's what makes these so good at low rpm.
DC power also makes a direct fit alternator for most applications. I have their 180 amp version on my c6. Mechman seems to have a reputation for random failures in my research so I bought this one. It put out 100 amps at idle. Also fwiw, I did the c7 fan conversion using the stock c6 e38 128/pwm settings and it works as commanded. 15% is minimum speed and 90% is full blast. It shuts off at 14% and below and 91% and above
Are you able to use AC fan table % command?