Dodge Magnum 06 Nag1 issue after high stall TC, please help

[Israfil]

Well, its been about a year, but i found a wiring harness to take care of my electrical gremlins to some degree...so thats nice, but the bad news is the transmission issues do not seem to have been related. The car is a 2006 Dodge Magnum RT named Luna that I love very much, coolest car I've ever had, and if I can help it i'll be dead before she is.

The story so far. My engine was damaged about 2 years ago, so we had a new one sent over from summit, one with a built in cam, the hp103 from ATK. After fixing all the problems the mechanic who installed her new engine caused (missing bolts in the trans case, water pump fitted on with gasketsealer, etc) I basically got to enjoy her for all of a few weeks before the torque converter gave out. Being unsure if it was the TC or the trans, and having very little trust left for anyone, I Rebuilt the trans, bought a rebuilt high stall torque converter from trans_one (ebay, i know, im not too smart i guess lol) that they said stall tests somewhere from 2900 to 3200rpm. Ever since getting the transmission back in she's been giving me limp mode, she kicks back p0730 and p1731. basically since then I havent had my car working. Ive tried making some setting changes of my own, but my knowledge of the transmission settings is basically nil, bought myself a supposed course to try to LEARN it... it didnt have anything about the transmission tuning side so that was a waste of 500 dollars, took her to a local shop, sincity something to have THEM tune her using their dyno since its obvious i'm out of my depth, she went in there 3 times and came back with the same issue, and whatever they did to her VE tables had her way off of stoich, like 20%...its almost like they didnt bother using the wideband and just installed a canned tune. Basically at this point, I've got serious trust issues for "mechanics". So, back to square one. I was having some electrical gremlins so i just gave up in the dead of winter until i could source a new wiring harness, since my attempt at personally rebuilding it caused more problems than it solved, I probably connected something incorrectly or messed up a solder joint...either way, new harness is in now and most of the electrical is fine, but the codes persist, p0730 and p1731. I'm not sure if theres just something wrong with the torque converter, something STILL wrong with the transmission, something wrong somewhere else... i've changed the solenoids, i've changed the electrical board in the trans which i'm spacing on the name right now (been up all night), Tried replacing the speed sensors in the wheels just incase those were reading wrong, tried a new tcm at one point but put my old one back on since that didnt fix it, tried a new PCM and naturally that didnt either. I'm definitely not a wealthy man, being disabled doesnt pay much thus why it takes so long for me to save and get parts to try to get this thing working, i'm not sure i could afford to have a shop look at it if i could even find one that i'd TRUST at this point, because frankly they just keep being TERRIBLE, and im thinking that its just that i've always lived in las vegas so maybe there just ARENT any trustworthy mechanics around.

I need some help.... and you guys are probably the only ones that could help at this point. I saw someone named TransGo Robert on here commented on another thread with the same problem and seemed to know what was up so I'm hoping him or someone with similar expertise can help, and so I made sure to grab all the transmission sensors it would let me for the logs I've attached as he mentioned to do in that post. I've honestly searched through basically every thread on here with the error codes that i could find, but either didn't understand what was being said, or it didnt have a solution, or the solution just wasnt apparent from the thread. Could this be a PHYSICAL problem with the TC? Could it be just tuning related? Did I somehow screw up following the rebuild manual for the nag1 (i was extremely careful to follow it as perfectly as i could but its possible i guess)?. If its just the transmission I know a yard that has some "good" junked ones i can get ahold of that probably wouldn't take so much money that it leaves us destitute, or if its the torque converter mechanically I was considering just getting another high stall one but this time from the guys at HHP so I would KNOW it was a good TC, but if its just tuning then I'd really love to have my car work. I wanted to get a higher stall because i felt like itd match up better with the expected performance of the new engine than the default. The only other thing I can think of to do is just to buy a normal "working" trans and normal tc from a salvage yard, but having put so much into her, rebuilding the tranny, brand new frictions and everything...all the seals, all everything and all that work, itd just be a horrible shame to throw someone elses dirty old slushbox in.

Thank you for any help you can give, this has honestly been a real living nightmare, and i'm just hoping it'll be over soon and I have my girl back on the road.

[DodgeBoy_8HP]

Well, its been about a year, but i found a wiring harness to take care of my electrical gremlins to some degree...so thats nice, but the bad news is the transmission issues do not seem to have been related. The car is a 2006 Dodge Magnum RT named Luna that I love very much, coolest car I've ever had, and if I can help it i'll be dead before she is.

The story so far. My engine was damaged about 2 years ago, so we had a new one sent over from summit, one with a built in cam, the hp103 from ATK. After fixing all the problems the mechanic who installed her new engine caused (missing bolts in the trans case, water pump fitted on with gasketsealer, etc) I basically got to enjoy her for all of a few weeks before the torque converter gave out. Being unsure if it was the TC or the trans, and having very little trust left for anyone, I Rebuilt the trans, bought a rebuilt high stall torque converter from trans_one (ebay, i know, im not too smart i guess lol) that they said stall tests somewhere from 2900 to 3200rpm. Ever since getting the transmission back in she's been giving me limp mode, she kicks back p0730 and p1731. basically since then I havent had my car working. Ive tried making some setting changes of my own, but my knowledge of the transmission settings is basically nil, bought myself a supposed course to try to LEARN it... it didnt have anything about the transmission tuning side so that was a waste of 500 dollars, took her to a local shop, sincity something to have THEM tune her using their dyno since its obvious i'm out of my depth, she went in there 3 times and came back with the same issue, and whatever they did to her VE tables had her way off of stoich, like 20%...its almost like they didnt bother using the wideband and just installed a canned tune. Basically at this point, I've got serious trust issues for "mechanics". So, back to square one. I was having some electrical gremlins so i just gave up in the dead of winter until i could source a new wiring harness, since my attempt at personally rebuilding it caused more problems than it solved, I probably connected something incorrectly or messed up a solder joint...either way, new harness is in now and most of the electrical is fine, but the codes persist, p0730 and p1731. I'm not sure if theres just something wrong with the torque converter, something STILL wrong with the transmission, something wrong somewhere else... i've changed the solenoids, i've changed the electrical board in the trans which i'm spacing on the name right now (been up all night), Tried replacing the speed sensors in the wheels just incase those were reading wrong, tried a new tcm at one point but put my old one back on since that didnt fix it, tried a new PCM and naturally that didnt either. I'm definitely not a wealthy man, being disabled doesnt pay much thus why it takes so long for me to save and get parts to try to get this thing working, i'm not sure i could afford to have a shop look at it if i could even find one that i'd TRUST at this point, because frankly they just keep being TERRIBLE, and im thinking that its just that i've always lived in las vegas so maybe there just ARENT any trustworthy mechanics around.

I need some help.... and you guys are probably the only ones that could help at this point. I saw someone named TransGo Robert on here commented on another thread with the same problem and seemed to know what was up so I'm hoping him or someone with similar expertise can help, and so I made sure to grab all the transmission sensors it would let me for the logs I've attached as he mentioned to do in that post. I've honestly searched through basically every thread on here with the error codes that i could find, but either didn't understand what was being said, or it didnt have a solution, or the solution just wasnt apparent from the thread. Could this be a PHYSICAL problem with the TC? Could it be just tuning related? Did I somehow screw up following the rebuild manual for the nag1 (i was extremely careful to follow it as perfectly as i could but its possible i guess)?. If its just the transmission I know a yard that has some "good" junked ones i can get ahold of that probably wouldn't take so much money that it leaves us destitute, or if its the torque converter mechanically I was considering just getting another high stall one but this time from the guys at HHP so I would KNOW it was a good TC, but if its just tuning then I'd really love to have my car work. I wanted to get a higher stall because i felt like itd match up better with the expected performance of the new engine than the default. The only other thing I can think of to do is just to buy a normal "working" trans and normal tc from a salvage yard, but having put so much into her, rebuilding the tranny, brand new frictions and everything...all the seals, all everything and all that work, itd just be a horrible shame to throw someone elses dirty old slushbox in.

Thank you for any help you can give, this has honestly been a real living nightmare, and i'm just hoping it'll be over soon and I have my girl back on the road.

Hello,
Did you change your Rear Axle? If yes, do a re-learn.

See a suggestion.

DodgeBoy.
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dodgeboy2785

[TransGo Robert]

It looks like your 3-4 shift pressure spring is broken. Here's a picture where I put a red box around the spring in question. The valve could also be sticking, but usually when it can't hold 4th like that and it goes back and forth it is because the spring broke.
3-4 Shift Pressure Spring.png

[Israfil]

Hello,
Did you change your Rear Axle? If yes, do a re-learn.

See a suggestion.

DodgeBoy.
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dodgeboy2785

Nope, the only thing that was changed in the driveline was the torque converter, and the transmission frictions, solenoids, valve body electrical board, and every rubber and gasket in there, as well as the trans fluid pump internally, but everything in the trans was replaced with same, same number of frictions, similar quality, etc, the only difference there should be the higher stall on the TC.

[Israfil]

It looks like your 3-4 shift pressure spring is broken. Here's a picture where I put a red box around the spring in question. The valve could also be sticking, but usually when it can't hold 4th like that and it goes back and forth it is because the spring broke.
3-4 Shift Pressure Spring.png

Omg really? I dont know how I would have missed that, I disassembled the valve body to ensure it was totally clean and free of any debris when I rebuilt it. If it's something that simple...oh man in gonna feel dumb. I just thought my tune was so far off that it was making it do that. I'll pull the valve body and check on that as soon as my body let's me (I'm rather...sickly, pain issues, but on the good days I can be productive enough). Thanks man, is it gonna be obvious, or should I just chuck that spring in the bin and order a new one?

[TransGo Robert]

Omg really? I dont know how I would have missed that, I disassembled the valve body to ensure it was totally clean and free of any debris when I rebuilt it. If it's something that simple...oh man in gonna feel dumb. I just thought my tune was so far off that it was making it do that. I'll pull the valve body and check on that as soon as my body let's me (I'm rather...sickly, pain issues, but on the good days I can be productive enough). Thanks man, is it gonna be obvious, or should I just chuck that spring in the bin and order a new one?

If the spring is broken, yes it will be obvious. However, as far as I know, you cannot purchase a new one from anywhere, so if that's the problem you will have to hunt for a used spring of the exact same dimensions which might be challenging. if the spring is not broken, make sure the dimensions match what is on the image I sent, you might have accidentally mixed up the spring with a different one in the valve body. If that's not it either then it will most likely be a leak at the K3, you can check that by air checking the clutch pack at the port I have highlighted here: Air.png

[Israfil]

If the spring is broken, yes it will be obvious. However, as far as I know, you cannot purchase a new one from anywhere, so if that's the problem you will have to hunt for a used spring of the exact same dimensions which might be challenging. if the spring is not broken, make sure the dimensions match what is on the image I sent, you might have accidentally mixed up the spring with a different one in the valve body. If that's not it either then it will most likely be a leak at the K3, you can check that by air checking the clutch pack at the port I have highlighted here: Air.png

You're amazing man, I never would have thought that it not being able to shift from one of the valves would have caused it to think it was going the wrong speed, I was almost sure it was something to do with the TC or my shift or pressure settings. I'll check that too while I've got it yanked, probably start teardown today.

[Israfil]

Oh, Robert, if the spring does turn out to be broken, wouldnt this be the right part to replace it? It looks like it's got a spring there... https://transgo.com/product-details/722-6-shift-kit/ if you've helped me I want to make sure its YOUR company I go to with any parts orders or fixes that they sell and that you get ANY related commissions. It's only right, you may have straight up saved my ass here ��. I mean... I could just clean internally and replace that whole valve and path to accomplish a fix yah?

[TransGo Robert]

Oh, Robert, if the spring does turn out to be broken, wouldnt this be the right part to replace it? It looks like it's got a spring there... https://transgo.com/product-details/722-6-shift-kit/ if you've helped me I want to make sure its YOUR company I go to with any parts orders or fixes that they sell and that you get ANY related commissions. It's only right, you may have straight up saved my ass here ��. I mean... I could just clean internally and replace that whole valve and path to accomplish a fix yah?

Unfortunately that spring is not one that comes in our Shift Kit.

[Israfil]

Unfortunately that spring is not one that comes in our Shift Kit.

Well, the good news is the shift spring and valve seem fine , they arent stuck or anything, nothing in the channels, etc so it's on to the k3 I guess. When you say air check... I assume you mean to apply air pressure to that marked tube and see if its leaking out rather than actuating the k3? Any idea how much pressure I should put into it safety-wise? Also, anything that needs to be plugged or should it actuate without needing to plug any exhaust? Sorry about all the questions, transmissions are so far out of my wheelhouse but paying someone 5 grand+ to fix it, even if I had the ability to just not pay rent and could find someone to trust locally, would take several months of saving nearly everything to pull off. Sadly rent and bills also exist.

[TransGo Robert]

Well, the good news is the shift spring and valve seem fine , they arent stuck or anything, nothing in the channels, etc so it's on to the k3 I guess. When you say air check... I assume you mean to apply air pressure to that marked tube and see if its leaking out rather than actuating the k3? Any idea how much pressure I should put into it safety-wise? Also, anything that needs to be plugged or should it actuate without needing to plug any exhaust? Sorry about all the questions, transmissions are so far out of my wheelhouse but paying someone 5 grand+ to fix it, even if I had the ability to just not pay rent and could find someone to trust locally, would take several months of saving nearly everything to pull off. Sadly rent and bills also exist.

Bummer I was really hoping it would be as simple as that spring being broken since it acted exactly like hey do when that spring breaks. Did you check to make sure it is the correct spring matching the dimensions given in the image I sent before? The spring should be 0.950" long, 0.256" in diameter and the wire itself 0.023" in diameter. If it is the right spring then aircheck the K3 but I doubt the issue is there simply because you need the K3 to have reverse. However it is not feed full line pressure in 4th and 5th so you never know. You just used compressed air, it doesn't matter how high your compressor pressure goes, you simply want to make make sure it applies solid when you pressurize it. It is a bit hard to explain in writing how to tell if it is right or not, but one thing that can help is to compare how the K3 airchecks comparing it with B2 and B3. They should all aircheck the same or just about. If that's good then I would look at the 3-4 solenoid. You might have cut one of the two O-ring on the snout or not replace them. After a while they are often hard and don't seal well, you can get just the solenoid O-rings on Amazon. I have circled the solenoid in question in read in this image. If all that looks good then I would swap the 3-4 solenoid with the one next to it (1-2/4-5) as a test just in case you have a defective solenoid which is pretty rare but you never know. Also check the O-rings for all the solenoids for good measure while you are there. Both the mod pressure regulator and shift pressure regulator solenoid can cause all kinds of odd issues if their O-rings are compromised.
3-4.jpg

[Israfil]

Bummer I was really hoping it would be as simple as that spring being broken since it acted exactly like hey do when that spring breaks. Did you check to make sure it is the correct spring matching the dimensions given in the image I sent before? The spring should be 0.950" long, 0.256" in diameter and the wire itself 0.023" in diameter. If it is the right spring then aircheck the K3 but I doubt the issue is there simply because you need the K3 to have reverse. However it is not feed full line pressure in 4th and 5th so you never know. You just used compressed air, it doesn't matter how high your compressor pressure goes, you simply want to make make sure it applies solid when you pressurize it. It is a bit hard to explain in writing how to tell if it is right or not, but one thing that can help is to compare how the K3 airchecks comparing it with B2 and B3. They should all aircheck the same or just about. If that's good then I would look at the 3-4 solenoid. You might have cut one of the two O-ring on the snout or not replace them. After a while they are often hard and don't seal well, you can get just the solenoid O-rings on Amazon. I have circled the solenoid in question in read in this image. If all that looks good then I would swap the 3-4 solenoid with the one next to it (1-2/4-5) as a test just in case you have a defective solenoid which is pretty rare but you never know. Also check the O-rings for all the solenoids for good measure while you are there. Both the mod pressure regulator and shift pressure regulator solenoid can cause all kinds of odd issues if their O-rings are compromised.
3-4.jpg

Since there were multiple springs that had matching dimensions I didnt think to measure them, I checked to make sure it matched up to another valve's spring with the same specs on your image in size and roughly in spring pressure (the one right next to it that's supposed to match) figured if it were the wrong one it couldnt.

Unfortunately the solenoids and the conductor plate have been replaced with no change, o rings are all in place and came with the new solenoids, though they all match within spec on an ohmmeter according to the rebuild manual so it was probably pointless to replace em, I just didnt feel like swapping em back.
The k3 I can feed air to now, just finished printing up an adapter to put my compressors air gun in it, but I'm not sure how I'd even be able to tell it went fully into position, am I supposed to be removing the whole trans and just getting at the k3 directly at this point, or just pressurizing that hole you marked to leak check it?

Also... it does say to check with a feeler gauge when you reinstall the clutch packs, if I didnt read it right could that be whats causing the speed mismatch code (p1730 I think it was? I wrote it on the first post) is it possible for the steels in it to just be too worn down and so it doesnt get enough friction in that gear? It has brand new frictions but the kit I got didnt have the bare steels that were in there so I had to reuse the old ones.

[Israfil]

Bummer I was really hoping it would be as simple as that spring being broken since it acted exactly like hey do when that spring breaks. Did you check to make sure it is the correct spring matching the dimensions given in the image I sent before? The spring should be 0.950" long, 0.256" in diameter and the wire itself 0.023" in diameter. If it is the right spring then aircheck the K3 but I doubt the issue is there simply because you need the K3 to have reverse. However it is not feed full line pressure in 4th and 5th so you never know. You just used compressed air, it doesn't matter how high your compressor pressure goes, you simply want to make make sure it applies solid when you pressurize it. It is a bit hard to explain in writing how to tell if it is right or not, but one thing that can help is to compare how the K3 airchecks comparing it with B2 and B3. They should all aircheck the same or just about. If that's good then I would look at the 3-4 solenoid. You might have cut one of the two O-ring on the snout or not replace them. After a while they are often hard and don't seal well, you can get just the solenoid O-rings on Amazon. I have circled the solenoid in question in read in this image. If all that looks good then I would swap the 3-4 solenoid with the one next to it (1-2/4-5) as a test just in case you have a defective solenoid which is pretty rare but you never know. Also check the O-rings for all the solenoids for good measure while you are there. Both the mod pressure regulator and shift pressure regulator solenoid can cause all kinds of odd issues if their O-rings are compromised.
3-4.jpg

Since there were multiple springs that had matching dimensions I didnt think to measure them, I checked to make sure it matched up to another valve's spring with the same specs on your image in size and roughly in spring pressure (the one right next to it that's supposed to match) figured if it were the wrong one it couldnt.

Unfortunately the solenoids and the conductor plate have been replaced with no change, o rings are all in place and came with the new solenoids, though they all match within spec on an ohmmeter according to the rebuild manual so it was probably pointless to replace em, I just didnt feel like swapping em back.
The k3 I can feed air to now, just finished printing up an adapter to put my compressors air gun in it, but I'm not sure how I'd even be able to tell it went fully into position, am I supposed to be removing the whole trans and just getting at the k3 directly at this point, or just pressurizing that hole you marked to leak check it?

Also... it does say to check with a feeler gauge when you reinstall the clutch packs, if I didnt read it right could that be whats causing the speed mismatch code (p1730 I think it was? I wrote it on the first post) is it possible for the steels in it to just be too worn down and so it doesnt get enough friction in that gear? It has brand new frictions but the kit I got didnt have the bare steels that were in there so I had to reuse the old ones.

If it could be that, and we take it back out and it reads out of spec, would I simply buy shims and shim it to be within the tolerance the manual says it should have, or do I need new steels, or do I need a new k3?

[LilSick]

steels don't wear down like that but sometimes they vary in thickness when new

mostly they burn or warp

not like a wavy washer, but like a cone

have to check each one on a piece of glass - that is what i do anyways

if they are warped like a cone they produce less friction than they do if they are flat

regardless you have to measure the clutch packs

no one blueprints anything anymore

swear to god

no one owns a degree wheel and a dial indicator but look at all the cams being slapped in there

[TransGo Robert]

Since there were multiple springs that had matching dimensions I didnt think to measure them, I checked to make sure it matched up to another valve's spring with the same specs on your image in size and roughly in spring pressure (the one right next to it that's supposed to match) figured if it were the wrong one it couldnt.

You lost me there, not sure what you mean. You need to make sure the spring is the right one, that the dimensions match what I gave you. Don't worry about the spring tension listead, that's for more advance stuff. Just make sure it has the right length, diameter and wire diameter. Remember that everyone points to you building that problem in the unit when you attempted to work on it yourself. So a mixed up spring would make a lot of sense.

Unfortunately the solenoids and the conductor plate have been replaced with no change, o rings are all in place and came with the new solenoids, though they all match within spec on an ohmmeter according to the rebuild manual so it was probably pointless to replace em, I just didnt feel like swapping em back.

If by that you did not replace those to try and fix this issue but simply did as part of the repair your originally attempted to do then I would highly suspect all those new parts. New parts nowadays are very unreliable in quality and of course they could also be the wrong one. If you still have the original parts, I would put them back in to see if it works fine or not.

The k3 I can feed air to now, just finished printing up an adapter to put my compressors air gun in it, but I'm not sure how I'd even be able to tell it went fully into position, am I supposed to be removing the whole trans and just getting at the k3 directly at this point, or just pressurizing that hole you marked to leak check it?

This is rebuilding transmission 101 and really simple. You don't take the transmission apart, you simply air check each element in the case with the valve body removed in order to know if all is assembled properly in there with no cut or missing seal. You put our air gun on the port for the K3, apply air pressure and see if it leaks or not. Then you do the same for all the other clutch. Never put a transmission back together before first air checking each clutch pack.

Also... it does say to check with a feeler gauge when you reinstall the clutch packs, if I didnt read it right could that be whats causing the speed mismatch code (p1730 I think it was? I wrote it on the first post) is it possible for the steels in it to just be too worn down and so it doesnt get enough friction in that gear? It has brand new frictions but the kit I got didnt have the bare steels that were in there so I had to reuse the old ones.

Don't worry about that. the steels can be reused just fine unless the old pack was burnt up and the steels have hot spots on them. This is not a clearance issue, the computer is reporting a ratio error because when it tries to shift to 4th and 5th most of the time it goes in between two gears, sometimes it slips badly, other times odely it shifts ok.

Unfortunately the data available with HP Tuners is not all that great for the 722.6, we can't see the N2 and N3 readings or what the computer is commanding each solenoid to do, so we are left guessing a bit. But if you cover the basics by air checking the unit to make sure you don't have a leak in there, measure the spring to ensure it is the correct one, and put back the original electronics (hopefully you still have them) then I think you have a very good chance that it will work.

[Israfil]

You lost me there, not sure what you mean. You need to make sure the spring is the right one, that the dimensions match what I gave you. Don't worry about the spring tension listead, that's for more advance stuff. Just make sure it has the right length, diameter and wire diameter. Remember that everyone points to you building that problem in the unit when you attempted to work on it yourself. So a mixed up spring would make a lot of sense.



If by that you did not replace those to try and fix this issue but simply did as part of the repair your originally attempted to do then I would highly suspect all those new parts. New parts nowadays are very unreliable in quality and of course they could also be the wrong one. If you still have the original parts, I would put them back in to see if it works fine or not.



This is rebuilding transmission 101 and really simple. You don't take the transmission apart, you simply air check each element in the case with the valve body removed in order to know if all is assembled properly in there with no cut or missing seal. You put our air gun on the port for the K3, apply air pressure and see if it leaks or not. Then you do the same for all the other clutch. Never put a transmission back together before first air checking each clutch pack.



Don't worry about that. the steels can be reused just fine unless the old pack was burnt up and the steels have hot spots on them. This is not a clearance issue, the computer is reporting a ratio error because when it tries to shift to 4th and 5th most of the time it goes in between two gears, sometimes it slips badly, other times odely it shifts ok.

Unfortunately the data available with HP Tuners is not all that great for the 722.6, we can't see the N2 and N3 readings or what the computer is commanding each solenoid to do, so we are left guessing a bit. But if you cover the basics by air checking the unit to make sure you don't have a leak in there, measure the spring to ensure it is the correct one, and put back the original electronics (hopefully you still have them) then I think you have a very good chance that it will work.

Sorry I wasnt super accurate. I switched the electrical conductor plate after the issues started, but I wouldnt be able to put the original back in. It got damaged in the garage so it was tossed. The spring matches exactly the dimensions of the 3-4 command spring, and since they both have the same dimensions on your sheet I compared them visually under my bench magnification. I'll check em anyway when I'm back home to see if both springs have somehow become stretched or squished, just have to dig out the caliper. I'm glad, but also a bit worried to hear that it probably isnt a tolerance issue... if my failures as a mechanic were at fault I could believe that, but I'm at a loss for what it could be if I cant detect a leak and that worries me. I guess heres hoping, but it is weird because I basically replaced every seal in the dang transmission, and when I had the clutches out i did pop in a little air just to make sure it moved, but I guess I wasnt looking for leaks specifically.


I should mention that both sets of solenoids have been both checked on the multimeter, and bench tested for function. Both work, opening and closing normally and fall within spec. They were one of my first suspicions, mostly because they were cheap enough for me to fix if they were the problem.

[TransGo Robert]

Sorry I wasnt super accurate. I switched the electrical conductor plate after the issues started, but I wouldnt be able to put the original back in. It got damaged in the garage so it was tossed. The spring matches exactly the dimensions of the 3-4 command spring, and since they both have the same dimensions on your sheet I compared them visually under my bench magnification. I'll check em anyway when I'm back home to see if both springs have somehow become stretched or squished, just have to dig out the caliper. I'm glad, but also a bit worried to hear that it probably isnt a tolerance issue... if my failures as a mechanic were at fault I could believe that, but I'm at a loss for what it could be if I cant detect a leak and that worries me. I guess heres hoping, but it is weird because I basically replaced every seal in the dang transmission, and when I had the clutches out i did pop in a little air just to make sure it moved, but I guess I wasnt looking for leaks specifically.


I should mention that both sets of solenoids have been both checked on the multimeter, and bench tested for function. Both work, opening and closing normally and fall within spec. They were one of my first suspicions, mostly because they were cheap enough for me to fix if they were the problem.

Ok so the chances of having two bad conductor plate are very slim we can pretty much rule that out. On the solenoids did you replace them right from the get go or only after trying to fix the problem that showed up after you worked on it the first time? You cannot bench test those solenoids by the way, they are PWM. You can check the resistance yes, but it is a complete waste of time since the computer is always monitoring the solenoids amp draw so it would throw a code right away if the resistance was wrong. mechanically bing PWM solenoid you need special equipment to feed them pressure and to to valy the amperage using a PWM driver to see if they regulate properly. Just testing ON/OFF tells you nothing, most bad solenoid will still appear to work just fine that way.

If the spring is the right measurement no need to look at it more. It would have to be drastically weaker to cause the issue, that's not it. Aircheck the unit to see if you have any leaks in there or not. If not and you no longer have the original solenoids to try, it might be cheaper and easier to just get a good used valve body and put it in there.

[Israfil]

When I say bench tested, I mean I took each, checked them based on the chart in the atsg 722.6 book on page 23 (it says 2.5-6.5 ohms for most of em except the tcc which is 2.0-4.0 ohms) then I checked their function by feeding them a few volts and giving them a low pressure air from the airgun into the inlet and they switched open/exhaust as youd expect a solenoid to do. I used an amperage and voltage controlled bench top power supply I have for electronics tinkering. The clutch pack does sound weird when air is applied... it may very well have a leak. I'm gonna check a few videos to see if I can find an example of what it sounds like leaking vs good. (I assume sound is the indicator since theres no obvious visual way to see anything that's going on). Assuming it is leaking... what would I do? Replace k3?

[TransGo Robert]

When I say bench tested, I mean I took each, checked them based on the chart in the atsg 722.6 book on page 23 (it says 2.5-6.5 ohms for most of em except the tcc which is 2.0-4.0 ohms) then I checked their function by feeding them a few volts and giving them a low pressure air from the airgun into the inlet and they switched open/exhaust as youd expect a solenoid to do. I used an amperage and voltage controlled bench top power supply I have for electronics tinkering. The clutch pack does sound weird when air is applied... it may very well have a leak. I'm gonna check a few videos to see if I can find an example of what it sounds like leaking vs good. (I assume sound is the indicator since theres no obvious visual way to see anything that's going on). Assuming it is leaking... what would I do? Replace k3?

Air does not cut it, take my word for it, been there done that got the T-shirt... you need special equipment with regulated ATF feed to test those solenoids in any conclusive way. No need to look for videos, do as I suggested before and compare the other ports next to it for B2 and B3 to see if the K3 does air test different pointing to a leak. All of those should aircheck the same. If it is leaking then obviously you will have to take it apart and find where the leak is at it is usually form a damaged sealing ring on seal.

[Israfil]

I definitely wasn't able to test it for the amount of pressure or anything, I just wanted to make sure they weren't completely/electrically DOA before bothering to install em, same with the ones that came out, figured any checking is better than not checking it at all. These days ya just can't trust parts. I THINK it's leaking air, but...I can't be sure but I took a video so it could be heard compared to the port right next to it. Lemme know what ya think. Tried to upload it directly but the forum doesn't seem to let video files get uploaded so it's on my YouTube https://youtu.be/ur0RrDKQpqQ?si=olo3TtaBgz1ruy-e

I tried watching videos of air testing transmissions but not one of the ones I found identified a bad or leaking test result, so I have no solid idea what I'm listening for