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Thread: Idle and initial drive tune support needed

  1. #1
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    Idle and initial drive tune support needed

    Hi all,
    Looking for a bit of help in building out a tune to get the car idling and in a driveable state after upgrades.

    2000 LS1 out of a Camaro swapped into a 2002 Honda S2000. I had the motor, 100% stock with a LS6 MAF, mated to a slightly built T56. It was in the car for about a year, working out kinks with the swap before pulling it.

    Motor is ready to go back in after upgrades... I made a lot of changes and don't really know what to do to get it back running...

    Motor configuration I am looking to tune, coming from a 100% stock + LS6 MAF set-up. I highlighted what I think is most pertinent to the tune.

    • Trickflow 225 Heads, 63CC chamber, and powdered metal guides
      Brian Tooley Racing LS9 multilayer gasket, 7 layer
      Stock rockers with Smith Brothers Bronze bearing trunion kit
      Brian Tooley Racing 0.630" lift dual spring with steel retainers
      LS7 Lifter, Trays, running 7.475" 5/16 pushrods
      Brian Tooley Racing Stage 3 NA LS cam, Specs: 231/244 .630"/.615" 112.5+2.5, INTAKE LOBE LIFT @ TDC: 0.05810
      IWIS Single row chain
      Meling High Flow/Pressure Oil Pump
      FAST 102 Intake
      FAST 102 Big Mouth TB
      FAST 36lb/hr (378cc) Injectors

      GM LS2 Fuel Rail
      GM LS6 MAF out of a 2003 Z06
      Currently as NGK TR5 plugs


    I attached the last tune that was in the car. Speedo and related stuff is a bit of a mess to get the LS PCM to work with the stock S2000 dash. Car ran decent on the tune, no issues with AFR at WOT.

    I do have an wideband AFR and Oil Pressure gauge in the car.

    Any guidance on what to change in the tune to get it to idle is appreciated! I do plan on having it given a real good tuning with a local shop known for their work on LS motors later in the summer.

    05142021_ speedoadjust.hpt
    Last edited by SilverS2kV8; 05-21-2024 at 06:15 PM.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    FAST doesn't have proper data for HP Tuners, those are kinda worthless.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    FAST doesn't have proper data for HP Tuners, those are kinda worthless.
    I feel like this statement needs clarification. I'm using the FAST 303608, after a set of re-man GTP injectors stuck open on me. If the thread below is wrong, would be good to know.

    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...b-hr-injectors

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteelDr89 View Post
    I feel like this statement needs clarification. I'm using the FAST 303608, after a set of re-man GTP injectors stuck open on me. If the thread below is wrong, would be good to know.

    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...b-hr-injectors
    People reply with what they know. Fast is well known for not providing gm data, and most people have no idea that some have been cross-referenced to known data. If you look at the dates, that poster joined the forum 2 years after that thread was started. He probably has never seen it.

  6. #6
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    The injector data is certainly not correct. Look at IFR. Here's the GTP data:
    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post745105

    It'd be ideal to get a different set of injectors. Actual GM ones with 100% factory data:
    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post766924

    Convert the tune to the 1bar SD OS. Tune VE and forget about the MAF.

  7. #7
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    That cam will definitely run better in SD. 100%

    EFI specialist
    Advanced diagnostics, tuning, emissions
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  8. #8
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    Those injectors are pretty easy to work with IMHO. I wouldn't change them. We use them in house for smaller builds in house although you'd have a hard time maxing them out NA.


    Post a log. A lot of initial start up stuff has issues to diagnose. Sensors not reading as they should. etc.

    I agree this would be best in speed density.
    Tuner at PCMofnc.com
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the initial replies. Got some reading to do!
    I'll look into SD tuning as well.

    Motor goes back in car this weekend but probably won't being a position to start and log for another couple of weeks.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiriusC1024 View Post
    The injector data is certainly not correct. Look at IFR. Here's the GTP data:
    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post745105

    It'd be ideal to get a different set of injectors. Actual GM ones with 100% factory data:
    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post766924

    Convert the tune to the 1bar SD OS. Tune VE and forget about the MAF.
    Thanks Sirius for the info. I was able to find all the places to input the 36lb GTP injectors you linked to but the last one. "Fuel to Wall" transient. I found something similar "Fuel to Wall Impact Factor" that has very similar labels but not exact. The Y axis goes in steps of 20 not 10 like in the excel sheet, and the X axis labels are slightly different. Is this the right spot to input these values or am I missing the spot to enter them?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    That cam will definitely run better in SD. 100%
    Edcmat, any threads that are worth reading on how to get started with an SD tune. I did a search and nothing popped out as being helpful. I did find a thread on LSTech outlining how to get the ECU into SD mode and initial start-up for tuning, but it lacked info for me to fully grasp what I was changing.

  12. #12
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    Alright! The car starts and idles! It did it on first try too!!!


    I used the Idle how to linked above and it seemed to work out. I didn't idle for long (ran out of the coolant I am using so couldn't fill rad all the way) but logged what I was seeing. Hoping someone could take a look and see if anything was glaringly wrong or of concern.

    Goal is to tune open loop SD based on suggestions and more reading...

    Initial thoughts...

    It's rich in spots, but see signs of being lean... Function of the wideband still coming to life and more idle time would correct cell?

    It doesn't like returning to idle with a bit of throttle added, it seems to drop off, over correct, then over correct, repeat a few times then returns.

    Timing seems pretty high...


    I've attached the tune that is in the car now, the log from the short run, and the user defined math for the wideband table.

    Any help is appreciated as I get going... I fully expect to have more issues as I go!

    Start 05 - 01JUL2024.hpl
    Wideband.MathParameter.xml
    01JUL2024 - Updated SD tune.hpt
    Last edited by SilverS2kV8; 07-02-2024 at 07:05 PM.

  13. #13
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    WOW ! Thats an Awesome explanation and procedure Thanks !

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 old guy View Post
    WOW ! Thats an Awesome explanation and procedure Thanks !
    where? did i miss something?

  15. #15
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    Car is driveable , need help on next steps!

    Hi All ...

    Over the 4th of July holiday I spent some time getting the tune in better shape to drive the car for more logging and tuning.

    Looking to see how it looks so far and make sure I am on the right path. I have attached the current tune in the car and the log from the last drive I took. I am tuning using a Wideband on Bank 1 and the signal is fed back into the LS PCM on the AC pressure sensor circuit.

    1. What should I be targeting for part throttle/cruise AFRs? It seems pretty lean at low RPMs and I think 15 is a better target. I think the higher rpm lean events are coming off the throttle...

    2. I thinking 13.0-13.5 for WOT is a good target. Seems to be doing ok. I need more high RPM hits at 6k and above still.

    3. Car is surging at part throttle conditions, sub 15mph for example. Makes it pretty hard to drive. What should I be looking to adjust?

    4. Car comes back down to idle pretty well most times, seems to want to hang around 1100rpm for a bit then drops down to 850-900. Car did die when I pulled in, clutch was in and I was coasting...

    5. IAT is pretty high so not loving my intake set-up. I was hoping for colder. Not sure it is a problem but going to look to route it out of the engine bay...

    6. Car also runs quite a bit hotter than it did before I did the heads and cam, is that normal? Before it was like 190-195, now seems to be more 210ish. It is also unseasonably hot and humid where I am (90s and 95%+ humidity)

    Any help is appreciated . I feel like it is going in the right direction, but want to make sure I'm not getting to far out of whack!
    Attached Files Attached Files