Injector PWM

[Brandon_]

I'm having some trouble with getting the correct PID for JTEC 2001 Cherokee 4.0. I've tried every Injector pid I could find with no luck. Any advice would be greatly appreciate. if you look at the log file you can see how crazy rich I am, but of course I took over someone else's problems. No real injector data "supposed to be factory"

Injector Numbers: 01G051B-0293
Throttle Body: 033-086 M9 1704 I believe 62MM factory replacement.

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VIN: 1J4FF48S81L629084
2001 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 L, V6
Hardware: JTEC+, Dodge/Jeep 99+
VIN: 1J4FF48S81L629084
OS: 56041801AD

What I know.. factory bottom end, replaced head with 7120, but it seems I have combustion gas getting into the coolant. Gets to 220 really quickly and lots of bubbles and ultimately pressures up the system. wouldn't think that would make it run rich. Fingers crossed they didn't put any thread sealer on the front head bolt. Has header, originally didn't have 02 sensors. Added them but is still open header. Fuel Pressure unknown.

Admittedly, I need to check plugs, compression/leak down. confirm head bolt torque. basically do everything possible first to keep from pulling the head... then pull head SMH.

Please advise if I should post in a different location.

jeep tune.hptJeep log 1.hpl

[chevota]

I'd say with 99.9% certainly that the head has to come off.
As far as your PID, I'd hit up the Jeep side of the forum. I'd imagine someone knows the PID, or the #, to get it working. Maybe you can google the PID #?

[Brandon_]

Thanks Chevota, I will give that a shot. I will look the next time Im there, but I bore scoped the cylinders and they all look good. Head bolts were torqued correctly too. I read somewhere that make a standard and a reverse rotation water pump. maybe, they have the wrong one on there?!?, but probably not. I will do the combustion gas test on the radiator and check the water pump then order the head gasket.

Thanks again!

[chevota]

Water in the chamber will clean it, and some people, like me, will do it on purpose for that reason. Otherwise, bubbles in the radiator almost always mean head gasket, but sometimes a cracked head.
Interesting about the water pump rotation. I'd assume they were smart enough to make the bolt pattern different so this cannot happen. If not, then it would still flow and in the right direction, but the angle of the blades in it will determine how well it works. All the ones I see have the blades angled back, so if reversed, and angled fwd, it simply flows less. The blade design on some pumps are more funky so going the wrong way is even worse. The end result is likely overheating, just a matter of long it takes.
Perhaps, if the pump were backwards, it overheated and caused the gasket leak? So I'd check the head for warpage too.

Normally when a gasket leaks like that (assuming the correct pump) it will only cause it to get hot if it's blown enough water out the rad cap vent. Or, optionally, some leaks will suck water in and use it up. When I have issues like that I take the rad cap off. This will let exhaust out which may make all the difference. If it's sucking water into the eng then you removed the pressure helping get in there. Of course it just helps to get you home, or help troubleshooting, it's no fix.