Fucken money shot right there compared to the dog of a thing in previous iterations. Love it when the maths works out.
Fucken money shot right there compared to the dog of a thing in previous iterations. Love it when the maths works out.
Thanks on helping the idle sorted. It was nice to have it idle in drive again. I should be able to work through the rest. The temperature variance in trims was bothering me and I might try couple of changes or maybe leave it alone. I used to run spacers with stock manifold and it was a pain to set in place and be right. They were aluminium as well. I ended up switching to this intake to try and eliminate spacers. My issue with what was on the shelf did not work with my combo without extra thick gaskets and really opening up the bolt holes. Intake is a factory air box going through the fender. I had to make a tight 90* elbow to make it work, which then required to put in a honey comb piece right before the maf. Fuel pressure regulator is adjustable and I will verify its settings. I had noted 60 psi before but it might actually be 58 psi. Which is still slightly off. So far I have been running low octane fuel with the spark table as it is. I did not find much of any gain raising the spark past about 33 during older runs, but with after this round of updates need to test again. Vehicle is running 33" tire with 3.73 gears, which gets me 0 to 60 run in 1st gear.
Edit: maybe I need to wrap ac cold side line around the intake pipe
Last edited by yevgenievich; 06-24-2024 at 10:08 PM.
Your welcome, smokeshow was a huge help behind the scenes, more than more than most will know. That is unless they've spent considerable time in IDA / Ghidra then they'll know what's up. His work early on in your tune plus his comments pointed me in the right direction to eventually stumble across the function that after some head scratching allowed me to build a python script for MATLAB to work out how to set your torque table for idle based on airflow, desired rpm and baro and 8 MAF coefficients from your tune.
Get off that low octane crap lol. Tuner Nerd make a really nice knock ear kit. The LS3 timing map is worth a look to base off. Then have a LSA map on file for when you got boosted.
The FI Spacers are a composite type with o-ring sealing. They're a nice piece of kit, they won't transfer heat like aluminium ones. They also do a thermal blanket for between the valley and manifold. You can also get your headers ceramic coated too. It all helps. I've got his Interchiller and spacers on my LSA. It works extremely well.
You're a good candidate for water / meth injection. Tuner Nerd also make a nice controller for that too lol. I need access to your bank account to buy you car parts for Xmas.
Lol, is that even a thing? You got me thinking, get some bundy pipe to spiral around it with some nice dry brake fittings on the ends. Gas tight instrument isolators on the A/C lines for disconnect. Wrap the spiral pipe and manifold in copper tape then wrap with exhaust wrap and stainless steel cable ties. Would be pretty sick cuz.Originally Posted by yevgenievich
Nice work on the script for working it out. I will look at ls3 map. My exhaust is already coated and header wrapped. I want to put louvers in the hood right above the air intake box. My current plan on intercooler was to use a stack from a newer diesel truck. My goals are relatively low with boost levels which I hope will equate to lower temperatures. Currently my ac line low side runs right beside the air intake, so I might just try putting a blanket over them together in attempt to shield heat away and help slightly with cooling.
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