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Thread: p01 lm7 to l33 sd d1sc wont idle after swap

  1. #1
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    p01 lm7 to l33 sd d1sc wont idle after swap

    over the weekend i swapped out my lm7 for an l33 and can't get it to idle. the lm7 was bone stock with d1sc Procharger, Holley Hiram, 102tb, decapped injectors, 4l80e with circle d 2800 stall converter, and speed density tune. running driving no real problems for over a year, only swapped because i blew a head gasket after over heating in burn out event. i transferred everything over to the l33 along with adding a chopacobra cam. now the truck wont idle i have tried bumping up base idle and base rung air flow along with leaning out the ve table in idle area with no change. it does run if i hold the gas i can even hold a 700 rpm, but the sec i let go it dies doesn't even try to catch it self. unfortunately i didn't save the tune messing with it but i do have the last tune from before the motor swap. it doesn't seem to respond to any the changes i make acts the same every time. thanks in advance any help is appreciated here is24-09-23 17-00-22.hplcurrent fuel presuer 3.hpt the tune a long

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Remove the 1 bar map from your logs, it's skewing that data stream up.

    Did you check your fuel pressure yet or smoke test for vacuum leaks??
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  3. #3
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    yes fuel pressure is being logged with tank pressure but it right where it should be and no i have not smoke tested there's only 2 vacuum line

  4. #4
    Advanced Tuner abc's Avatar
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    If it runs with the throttle held open, that's usually a clear indicator it needs more air at Idle. How much air have you tried to add with the BRAF? By the looks of it I would add 50% to the entire table and see what happens.

    Also remember, there are many more places for vacuum to leak other than two vacuum lines.

  5. #5
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    after i posted that i did think to myself it could be leaking from intake or tb gasket. I'll try to smoke test it tonight. i think I've only added 20% to it ill try higher now and see what it does.

  6. #6
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    i added 50% and it seemed better so i doubled down and add another 50% but doesn't seem to be making it better how much can i just keep adding to that table?

  7. #7
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    Are you sure your IAC is working?

  8. #8
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    I'm not sure how could i verify that?

  9. #9
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    don't want my first post to be a dead end so here is what i fond to help me. i took the iac out of the tb and cleaned it was pretty dirty. also verified it worked by turning the truck on while it was out of the tb and seen it move. then i adjusted the tb blade until i seen it pick up on the scanner then turn it back till i got just a hair under 1% tps so the tps read 0%. i must have had my tb blades at a negative position so how it ran like that before. but now with the adjustments it idles kind of lol but now it responds to the tune so once i get the water side finished up i can play around with the tune more. thanks again for the help

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  11. #11
    Senior Tuner TheMechanic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulpaulpaul View Post
    don't want my first post to be a dead end so here is what i fond to help me. i took the iac out of the tb and cleaned it was pretty dirty. also verified it worked by turning the truck on while it was out of the tb and seen it move. then i adjusted the tb blade until i seen it pick up on the scanner then turn it back till i got just a hair under 1% tps so the tps read 0%. i must have had my tb blades at a negative position so how it ran like that before. but now with the adjustments it idles kind of lol but now it responds to the tune so once i get the water side finished up i can play around with the tune more. thanks again for the help
    Don't remove the IAC with the KOEO or KOER. You can damage the motor (IAC motor) not engine.