Hey, I have a G37 with a VQ37VHR engine, and I recently removed the catalytic converter. I?m running regular octane fuel, not high-octane. Can anyone help me with tuning the ECU to ensure the engine performs well with these changes, while also avoiding knocking and high exhaust temperatures? Thanks!
stock file is attached
This log file is for driving in multiple conditions such as idle mode, acceleration, and normal driving for about 20 minutes. Can someone analyze it and modify the file so that it adjusts the ratio of fuel and air after removing the catalytic converter?
how did you like the pops ?
i will log the log over later today
In the first attempt at the pop & bang tune that you provided, I flashed the file to the ECU, but there were no pops at all. The ignition timing was retarded even at idle, not just during deceleration, yet no pops occurred at all. If you're going to modify the pop & bang file, I’d like you to fix the issue of ignition timing retard at idle and also solve the problem of no pops happening.
As for modifying the stock file for my car, I have removed the catalytic converter, and there has been excessive fuel consumption. Also, the ECU is correcting positively, which means the engine is running rich. So, I need a specialist to properly adjust the MAF and AFR to balance the fuel mixture without a catalytic converter, considering that the fuel available to me is not high octane.
I also want to be able to switch between the pop & bang file and the properly adjusted cat-delete tune without pops at any time.
So, I need two modified files from my original file: one for the pop & bang tune and the other for adjusting the fuel and air mixture after removing the catalytic converter.
Thank you very much for the help. I appreciate that.
use these chanes to make a log G37.Channels.xml
I logged this data under various driving conditions, including idle, normal driving, and aggressive pulls. It was recorded using the channels provided to me and logged on the car?s stock file.
log this file
Hey bro, this is a live data log from the G37Tuned1 file. Still no pops or crackles from the exhaust I noticed the engine was running stable, ignition timing looked solid, and fuel trims were close to zero However, coolant temps are climbing a bit I'd like to lower the fan activation temperature if possible
there is no fan control for these unfortunately contact support for them to add it
this should have pops, make another log and post it and if you can log a pull to se how timing is at full load and see if we can get a bit more out of it, ones we are done i can make the normal file
i also can make it trow flames if you want haha, i have done it on a g37 2011 and 370z 2014 i believe it was
Hey again,
I flashed the latest file to the car, and the pops are there but really weak almost not noticeable.
I recorded two logs for you: one during aggressive full throttle driving, and the other during normal driving and idle
Also, I?d be down to have a separate flame tune map with the pop & bang map and the regular daily map
Thanks again
The pops in the exhaust currently happen between 3500-2000 RPM. It would be better if they were tuned to occur from 6000 down to 2000 RPM instead
see if this has more pops
and the full load log it doesn't look like you floored it ?
In the high-load log, I applied strong pressure during the final minute of the log I sent you.
Check the last minute of the high load log and you’ll see that I was pushing the engine
The pops from the exhaust were really good in the last tune, but if they were just a bit louder, I'd be 100% satisfied.
Also, here are some more logs from the last tune - one from an aggressive driving session and another with different driving modes
As for your excessive fuel consumption, are you still having a problem with it running rich while cruising? If the rear O2s [Bank X sensor 2, both] are still there and plugged in the ecu will richen the mixture until the response from the rear o2s resemble a pattern indicating the cats are functioning and if they're below the preset efficiency threshold or not. Unplug them, no rear O2s pretty much eliminates that diag strategy. Pretty common on GMs and Fords too. And you only need to uncheck the codes for the rear O2s [b1s2, b2s2]. Leave the front O2s as is so you'll know if one fails in the future via the check engine light.Originally Posted by ramadanzawali
I've already disabled the rear O2 sensors and physically unplugged them. The front O2 sensors are still in place and functioning properly.
So the ECU should no longer be using any rear O2 input for fuel adjustments or catalyst efficiency diagnostics. Only the front O2s are active now, and the car is essentially running a proper catless setup.
Good to hear, that's exactly what I did a few years back. This software works pretty good on Nissans once you figure out a few of the quirks, like the tables with zero explanation. I've got a single turbo 3.7HR in my 07, I've been using HPT on it for the last 5 years and I'm still figuring out how some of these tables affect it. And I'd love someone to explain the how they come up with the values on the Mass Air A and B tables. I've had difficulty with MAF tuning, specifically keeping the banks evenly matched. It's been fun but what colossal waste of time in the long run lol. One more year and I'm smog exempt in NC so i'll be going full standalone.
Can you help me by virtue of your experience in modifying the work between Bank A and Bank B
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