17 Regal LTG Tune Help

[Lennydmaxguy]

Hey everyone, I could use some help on this car. I do primarily diesel tuning, and this gas stuff has me scratching my head.

The car is a 2017 Buick Regal GS, LTG engine, Auto trans. It has forged internals and a flex fuel kit, but otherwise is mostly stock.

I found this youtube series https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Awuw6O0o6rOeCc, and watched the first three episodes. The 4th is mostly about different fuel delivery methods, which don't matter to me, since the car has stock fuel, apart from the flex fuel sensor.

I attempted to make a tune based on the info in the videos, but clearly I did something wrong, because the car stalls after a few seconds after startup. I didn't try to force it to stay running. It may be something that only happens at idle, but IDK. I flashed the tune I had been running back in for now.

So, tell me what I'm doing wrong, if the methods I used were any good or not, if the videos are full of trash... I want your honest opinions.

Thanks in advance. If there's someone with a lot of experience on these platforms, I'm not opposed to paying for a really good tune.

[Chevy Ecotec]

These guys have the fastest LTG powered Camaro on the planet, or did. They can tune you properly with HPT and then you will have a 1.0 file from them to compare and learn from.

https://zzperformance.com/collection...egal-turbo-pcm

[Lennydmaxguy]

These guys have the fastest LTG powered Camaro on the planet, or did. They can tune you properly with HPT and then you will have a 1.0 file from them to compare and learn from.

https://zzperformance.com/collection...egal-turbo-pcm

I do have a tune from them. I was hoping to get the car running better. There's no question the car has more power than stock, but the methods they use for tuning are the ones the YouTube series describes as the wrong methods.

[omega_5]

Take everything diesel related, and throw it away. Not being mean. I have to reset my brain when I go back to gas motors.

Remove the torque limiters and boost limits, like the guy video states. But, ease in to the Peak and Brake Torque tables. It looks like they are set a bit too aggressive as is. The torque management is most likely fighting the idle control with how it's currently set.
As you ease in the tables, be sure to log for knock and adjust accordingly. The Gen 2.2 and Gen 3 motors can take a bit of a beating, but knock will kill an very Ecotec quick. The more you do Ecotecs, the more you get a feel for how far you can go before needing to log for knock.
When the boost starts getting higher, do a MAF calibration.
Keep doing the cycle until you get the car where you're aiming for.
Personally, I don't touch the cams until it's dialed in.

[Lennydmaxguy]

Take everything diesel related, and throw it away. Not being mean. I have to reset my brain when I go back to gas motors.

Remove the torque limiters and boost limits, like the guy video states. But, ease in to the Peak and Brake Torque tables. It looks like they are set a bit too aggressive as is. The torque management is most likely fighting the idle control with how it's currently set.
As you ease in the tables, be sure to log for knock and adjust accordingly. The Gen 2.2 and Gen 3 motors can take a bit of a beating, but knock will kill an very Ecotec quick. The more you do Ecotecs, the more you get a feel for how far you can go before needing to log for knock.
When the boost starts getting higher, do a MAF calibration.
Keep doing the cycle until you get the car where you're aiming for.
Personally, I don't touch the cams until it's dialed in.

Thanks for the advice. I believe you that gas tuning is a whole other thing. I have a feeling you're onto something with the cam timing. I had put values in the tables that are from ATS tunes, and I'm thinking they're not compatible. I'll hopefully have time tomorrow to flash a revised tune, and see how it responds.

[Lennydmaxguy]

I got the revised tune flashed this evening. The VVT timing was the cause of the stall at idle. Overall, the car runs ok, but it could pick up some power up top. I did get a little knock in the 4000+ RPM area , so I'll pull timing there.

I've attached the tune and a log. If anyone has advice, that would be great.

[omega_5]

It looks like you're being boost limited, which isn't letting the car go to full commanded torque or boost.
Check the Supercharger tab (weird place) and up that to you're max allowed boost.

[Rjdiesel]

I?m trying to contact you but I haven?t figured out how to. I really need your help

[Lennydmaxguy]

I?m trying to contact you but I haven?t figured out how to. I really need your help

You mean me, or Omega?

[Lennydmaxguy]

I have not fallen off the earth by the way. I've had more important things taking up all my time, but I'll get back to the car eventually.

[Lennydmaxguy]

I had some time tonight to run a couple revisions.

I set the cams and torque coefficients back to stock. The car seems to run better like that.

I'm making much better boost now, but I could make more up top. What is a safe limit for a stock turbo on this car?

I'm getting some knock, even with the timing set fairly low. Do I just keep pulling timing until it's gone, or are there other factors?

Thanks for the help so far. I feel good about the progress I've made.

[omega_5]

It's making good boost now. Did it end up being the Max Allowed that was holding you back?
General consensus seems to be 20-22psi on the stock turbo. It can go higher, but you're way outside of the efficiency zone, and make nothing.
Can you verify if it's true knock or false knock? If it's true knock, make sure to address that. Again, knock will kill and Ecotec. The LTG is especially bad, as it has weaker pistons and rods than the earlier variants.

[Lennydmaxguy]

Yes, it picked up boost when I raised the max allowed. I had to tweak the wastegate control % then, I was majorly overboosting at mid throttle, and underboosting at WOT.

About the knock, would I be able to hear that amount of knock? I think I'll pull a bit more timing and see if it goes away, just to be safe.

[omega_5]

You might not necessarily hear it. I took a look at the log; I'm thinking it's true knock, based on the position.
Most of it is high boost, very low RPM. Try pulling timing until it sits in the 0.5-1.0. If it's inconsistent every log (sometimes there, sometimes not), you can probably leave it.
The high RPM knock would need to go, though.