Full power cut at WOT - no issues winding out

[Troubledtune]

Hi guys, i'm back. finally got the car to behave during normal driving, auto coasting is gone - except with AC/heater on, the heater issue is weird as it's never happened before.

My main issue is during our first WOT log, when i finally got to dig into the throttle, the car could be heard, felt, and seen cutting power to shift gears. it felt likt torque reduction was kicking in long enough for the trans to shift to the next gear, then it would rocket back up like it should, i've had this issue with other tunes so i dont think its mechanical. and the weird part, if i give it a little over 3/4 throttle, itll wind out and drive like it should. I was told my shift solenoid seals may be swelling causing the shift flares, which would make sense if it wasn't every gear shift at WOT and if it did it during normal driving. the car shifts crisply and quickly under every other circumstance.

The other issue ive noticed during the cold is the car revs upon startup, doesnt really bother me as long as it goes back to normal when winters over. I cannot use the heater to warm the cabin, RPMS climb and the car fights the brakes. it makes stop and go traffic dangerous when the RPMs hang at their raised position. it returns to normal the second i turn the heater back off. it didnt do this until recently. heater worked perfectly fine. AFR gauge is consistently reading high 14s for low and high 15s for high when i sit in traffic i watch it.

2011 charger rt AWD
Comp HRT stage 2 cam - limited not locked
ARH long tubes
6.4 manifold SRV active
K&N typhoon series intake
MSD coil packs
ATI UD pulley
3200 stall converter
added cooler for trans
redline c+ fluid
BC coilovers at highest height.

Can i please get some guidance on what to look for? attaching log with power cut WOTs and the tune.

Had a BBK TB installed but it was the alledged culprit for the first set of auto cruising issues. R16c CompStg2 StkInj STK TB Stk Trans file2 SRV WOT PULL.hplR16c.hpt

Thank you

[Hellscat2018]

datalog your throttle source and see what is switching it from peddle

[LilSick]

why is the convertor not locked?

do you have the stock file?

[Troubledtune]

Unfortunately the shop that did the work and loaded the original tune which didn't even get me the 4 mile trip home, didn't email me the backup original like they were supposed to. My second remote tuner had me reflash the pcm back to stock back in 2023 though. But only the pcm. My third remote tuner sent me a 6.4 stock tcm file but I don't know what other differences the nag1 had between the 2 other then TCC.

[LilSick]

the shop that did the work and loaded the original tune which didn't even get me the 4 mile trip home, didn't email me the backup original like they were supposed to.

second remote tuner had me reflash the pcm back to stock back in 2023 though. But only the pcm.

third remote tuner sent me a 6.4 stock tcm file but I don't know what other differences the nag1 had between the 2 other then TCC.

it's a shame when a shop tunes a car and does not give the customer the factory read. What broke on the way home?!?!

second guy had you take it to the dealer?

you cannot use a oem 6.4 trans calibration without adjusting the engine tune and the motor best be built for that extra rpm

who is tuning it now?

[Troubledtune]

Nothing broke, their tune was basically a copy of another vehicle and they didn't change much. I stopped to get gas and right at the pump the car wouldn't turn over lol. I had it towed back home and had Johan give it a crack.

Second guy couldn't get the car to stop auto cruising when no throttle input was happening and kept blaming random parts. Third guy got the auto cruise to stop for the most part but now it's quite literally cutting power when it detects WOT to shift. There is a good split second between every shift where I can literally feel the engine stop long enough to shift before it continues accelerating. It drives perfectly fine if I wind it out using less than WOT. Now the alleged culprit is my shift solenoid gaskets. The fluid for this job cost me 130 bucks and another shop broke my pan mount so it's rigged and I'm almost 1000% certain if I take it off it'll take some serious cussing to get it back on. I want to make damn sure before I spend an entire weekend tearing my valvebody out and apart that what the car is doing isn't tune related. All crap aside the current tuner has brought the car further than 3 other tuners. It is actually much easier to drive and it is fast enough that my compressed disk hurts when I hit the gas.

Oddly enough both recent tuners blamed my old throttlebody for the cruising. If I turn my heater on(no A/c) the RPMs jump by 500 and the car will move on its own.

I daily this thing 60 miles a day and it's my only source of transportation. This cam has taken 3 years to perfect xD and $1900 in tuning labor. Second guy disappeared so I had to find someone else. Now this guy hasn't been very responsive so I'm probably gonna be stuck taking a crash course in tuning or biting the bullet and finding a local shop to road tune it with me , it'll likely be flying Ryan performance. I've spent more on tuning the car than I did on parts for the cam swap lol

[LilSick]

This cam has taken 3 years to perfect

If I turn my heater on(no A/c) the RPMs jump by 500 and the car will move on its own.

sorta makes ya think [ECM] 35526 is not mapped correctly...

does it not?

[Stoopalini]

The auto-cruise could be 35035 + 44387 + 44388 as it looks like a previous tuner increased these table values which can cause a runaway throttle or auto cruise scenario.

[LilSick]

yeah but he said the auto cruise was no longer an issue.

that the issue is now triggered by activating the heater...

none of those three are part of the climate control setpoints

all of those are zero'd out

[Stoopalini]

Yeah, I saw 38970 and 38479 idle tables were zero'ed out. Might be worth trying some values in these tables though?

Also check out the torque adapts (14600, 14601, 14610, 14611, 14616, 14617). Looks like someone decreased the min of these and also increased the max. Wouldn't that impact the air flow if torque demand is changing with HVAC enablement?

My thought is the torque request is increasing somewhere when the HVAC is enabled, which then translates to an airflow demand increase in the airflow model and thus the throttle body is opening more.

In other words .... For whatever reason, the airflow demand is going up when heater is tuned on ... I'm thinking that's because the torque request is increasing somewhere

[Troubledtune]

Well i took the time to do a full log randomly engaging the heater while driving and idling but for some reason it won't take to the attachment unloader. Guess I'll try again later tonight. I'm about to Rip this cam out and throw it in the trash
I've never seen 4 pros unable to dial in a mild cam and that's why I went mild in the first place. Had I known this was gonna happen I woulda went all out 🤣

[Stoopalini]

The forum attachment feature won't work when the file size crosses some threshold. If you took a long log with many parameters, chances are the file size is larger than the forum will allow.

As a workaround, you can copy the file to Dropbox, or Google Drive, etc ... then post the link to the file here.

[LilSick]

do you have the pro features set and a pro link cable?

rig up a external input so the log will show when the fan for the cabin is powered up

also alphaObd might help you identify a glitch in the the BCM?

[Troubledtune]

Someone just reached out asking if my tuner was (redacted) because my tune looked exactly like his. It explains alot honestly. I had a suspicion he was doing what the last tuner did and using a template. That won't work for this specific vehicle because it isn't a typical charger and I daily it 60 miles a DAY and alot of it is stop and go. Contemplating going back to stock at this point xD

[Troubledtune]

Alright everyone im back, I didn't have enough problems in my life so I went and bought a BMW as a daily while this thing sits and that thing went from 0-99 problems before the ink dried on the temp tag xD. After a month of rebuilding the engine in my garage after work until 1 A.M every day, ive decided that the N63 is by far the worst engine ive ever worked on. But I digress..

Im finally ready to dig back into this poor car and get the WOT issues fixed and the rest of the tune smoothed out. Anyone got any direction I can go for some much needed assistance? I'd like to be able to drive this thing to st least get a state inspection ��

[fumanchu182]

Where are you physically located, I have a dyno in Annapolis, MD. I'd like to see a data log of the vehicle and see what is really going on.