throttle speed?

[epfatboy]

I have a DBW car and would like to slow the first 50% of the throttle down for daily driving and catch the rest up in the remaining throttle to WOT. I'm sure I could be better at pedal modulation but this car is pretty jumpy just getting it to roll away so I'm hoping I can do what I'm saying.

I see there are some parameters in the Electric Throttle tab that might do the job but there is a "ECU Brick disclaimer" embedded in the help text which made me think I should ask before I started messing with it.

I was thinking Desired Throttle Area - Normal table is what I'm looking for. A simple straight line adjustment across the ranges but would like some more info before I start messing with it since I really don't know if "pedal area" is what I think it is.

[horsepowerguru427]

Post the tune.

Assuming youre using a P59 then you could try going into

Engine>torque man>General>ETC TPS Max Adjust the table accordingly....

I wouldnt touch the Tables in the Engine>Airflow> Elec. Throttle

[jsf55]

I fixed the same issue on mine by installing a second spring on the throttle pedal. Hardly notice the extra pressure but it's more progressive

[epfatboy]

I believe it's gonna be HorsePowerguru427 for the win.
-- Engine>torque man>General>ETC TPS Max
And yes it is a P59
And Thank you

I hate to embarrass myself like this but I'm using a MO base tune and a Stock 2004 DBW (orig to ecu) and for what ever reason I missed this table when comparing to the OEM Tune.

The MO Tune table looks like it was setup for a DBW drag race implementation?

I'll load up the OEM and see where we are, looks like a crazy low % throttle to start but it's gotta be better than what I got.

64 Nova Again V1.hpt

2004 Chevy 2500HD LQ4 stock - Copy.hpt

[RDF1]

Wow. Ive never seen anybody make the table look like that.

[epfatboy]

Yeah well I cut and pasted it and don't feel that much better. Actually found it in another ride (original MO tune...) as well so there is that too...

I did however apply the changes to 2 of my rides. Both just cut/paste from oem.

The ride ORIGINALLY in question is a '64 Nova with a 6.7/408 in it.
The other ride is a '74 C10 with a 6.0 bored to a 6.2 with flat tops.

Both are gen 3, P59, DBW, 4L80e, etc. TAC's are correct for the P59's. The Physical throttles are not OEM's mod'd to fit, they both are Aftermarket "direct fit" for each ride from reputable suppliers but still aftermarket.

For the NOVA/6.7, I believe it did improve the drivability in reference to the throttle response but it wasn't as much as I thought given the change I was making. I really didn't take it thru the RPM range, so this is in reference to limited throttle/stop start driving.

For the C10/6.2, Same as above except to start with it already had decent manners but stop/start in my neighborhood did improve a little so it's a win.

BUT no data due to time (I have a wife too, a very cool wife who reminds me to eat and shit like that but still a wife) so... I'll be running both with maybe a few changes and taking the appropriate logs shortly. ANY tips on any of this is welcome. FYI I C/P'd the other 2 ETC Limit tables as well.

ONE THING THAT IMPROVED ON BOTH...

Part/light throttle "SURGING" and no throttle while coasting in gear surging.
I'm pretty sure it's GONE....
It was driving me crazy, it was very subtle but always there and pretty sure this was it!
And in retrospect I can even make some sense of it.

[epfatboy]

Crap...
Not sure IF/HOW this might matter but both rides are Cammed (spec'd to stall in use) and both have Stalled TQ's.

C10 is ~3200 (FIT) and the Nova (YANK) is ~3600... Pretty sure the C10 is tight and the Nova is loose so the swing is bigger than it appears.

[epfatboy]

BENEFIT #2... KNOCK RETARD.

Was having some issues with knock retard specifically when the TQ is locked and I slowly rolled into the pedal. I always got some knock until the TQ unlocked, I adjusted the sensor sensitivity a bit and thought I might have had it but didn't resolve the problem as it returned once I re-introduced the high octane spark table... which told me it was real knock.

The change to the throttle in torque management looks to have resolved this issue and again it makes some sense to me so pretty happy I posted this up!

Again thanks to HorsePower for the tip.

Here is where I'm at with the tune and a log, note I have no rear O2's and the log captured the ECU hi/lo sensor testing and the tune has a few other changes.

C10 Gen3 6.2 CLNUP V7.1.hpt
SD V7.2.hpl

[horsepowerguru427]

Was having some issues with knock retard specifically when the TQ is locked and I slowly rolled into the pedal.

Engine>spark>retard>burst knock retard zero these tables out and reintroduce some pedal to the mix. I usually get rid of burst knock anyways. Its just a predictive strategy. When it sees the throttle opening it knows there will be more air and a higher possibility of a momentary lean condition, so it retards timing before the knock ever happens. Might not have ever happened in most cases....