knock sensors ?

[RDF1]

now you need to relearn your TPS. It was showing you were revving the engine to 3000 rpms but the TPS wasnt registering.
Your timing is a little high at idle as well.

Use your AFR ERR in the datalog and modify the VE like this.

[dhoagland]

ok guys i know im getting on your guys nerves cause im getting on mine, this is what i did. i knocked the ve down 25%. then cut the braf bye 9.9gram. ok ive tuned it twice at this. here is the tune and a idle log in my garage.. want to thank you guys, it is starting better,. idle better, and not dying. im sure im not done but on a path, getting rid of the china throttle body has changed this truck alot. thanks

[dhoagland]

a i took about 25% out of the ve, and took 9.9 out of the idle adpat. this is a idle time in my garage, im new to this world please understand im learning the had way

You are learning the hard way and on a task thats not necessiarly for a beginner.
To teach myself (and I realize I'm a DIY hobbiest) I started with my 2011 Camaro, bone stock. Learned how to calibrate the MAF, purposely taking it lean then rich to get the hang of it. Then moving to cold air intake, then e85 (no I didn't need it, just wanted it).

This started out as a knock concern and you not wanting to damage things.
I'm asking you to take a step back and learn how to log and make corrections from the error graphs as has been mentioned here multiply times.

Making broad based 25% changes is wreckless and is going to cause damage, as shown by the screen shot I last posted.
I'm pretty confident that the VE table in your last file posted is way too lean up top.

Back to your knock.
I believe everyone here will agree you need to lower the heck out of your timing tables, put the low table back in as a safety to learn down to. Then slowly build your airflow modles (MAF-VE).
Then once those are spot on you can introduce timimng back into it.

I'll be more than happy to send you a layout to upload with error graphs that you will need to do this.

[twenglish1]

This ^^ we have all been trying to say this, either directly or implied, there is a well defined process to doing this correctly, it varies from person to person but usually relatively similar, the many threads have also been very difficult to follow, at this point im not even sure if the fuel system was characterized properly, i think someone here input the injector data for him? If not that would be step one, and if you are having to start with this step and inputing injector data then you need to start with a fresh file, or at the very least stock airflow, idle, spark tables, and as I mentioned before, every change made should be tied to recorded data

[mychevyisntheavy]

ok, i got it starting and idling alot betterhere is the current tune and i reset the tps this time i got the iac to 40-50. my idle adapt is -2.5 shoild i add a gram to it.i put to logs in this time cause one is set after i reset the throttle tps sensor. kinda hard for me to tune at work is why i did the tps after. we really cant work on our stuff at work i have to do it after work. i know i should set it up before. crap i posted the wrong log sorry here is the one i change the ve with. the bigger one is what i used to tune it

[mychevyisntheavy]

i have a maf error and a ve error. setup i seen tht you can take the ltft and stft and make error, im using my aem and the math to do the ve error, i think i got it now. i dont drive this thing alot, and i havent held the throttle at wide open cause i jknow the ve wasnt right, so no i havent held it down and the let it shift to second, but im getting there, if i see that im getting knock and im barely on the throttle then why hurt it. so yep this is why i bought the hptuners to learn to tune the knock away. hard headed as i am, but we all had to learn from a starting point . this is mine.

[mychevyisntheavy]

about how much and should i take it across the hole table or ? and about how much?

[mychevyisntheavy]

i just want to say thanks guys you all really did help me. im still learning. i ll get it i just hope i dont blow this thing up before ..and im not laughing. i listen to alot of people when i was buying things to build this thing. i had amail order tune and it was great, and worked for along time, then i got rid of the metal intake and all hell broke loose. i had changed the injectors to non-decapped to not the greatest injectors just what i could get at the time with what money i had, plan is to get the injector clinics ones the 750cc ones and these 243 heads thats coming and a dyno tune bye someone who is very reputable. just a few weeks away . bu i just didnt want to hurt this thing till then. so thanks gentemen for your input.

[dhoagland]

about how much and should i take it across the hole table or ? and about how much?

Here is a picture of one of your logs VE on Top and MAF on the bottom...
See in some areas you are lean, some you are rich...
Some data like down in the 400RPM is garbage data that you dont want

[mychevyisntheavy]

i understand that those are not usable. am i at lease getting better tuning i get that that at the beginning is trash, but its flowing the afr alot better. or my afr is flowing it alot better. and its not dying at a stop no moreand idling alot better

[dhoagland]

Screen shots of the other 2 logs...
One has lean cranking and post start data, the other has rich cranking data... Other than the lean after start, Garbage data, ignore it for this part of the process

Screenshot 2025-07-23 Top bot 3.jpg


Screenshot 2025-07-23 Top bot 2.jpg

[dhoagland]

Here is a picture of one of your logs VE on Top and MAF on the bottom...
See in some areas you are lean, some you are rich...
Some data like down in the 400RPM is garbage data that you dont want

If I was going to make adjustments based on this log. I would not touch anything in green.
You can adjust the red numbers by the percent.

[dhoagland]

i understand that those are not usable. am i at lease getting better tuning i get that that at the beginning is trash, but its flowing the afr alot better. or my afr is flowing it alot better. and its not dying at a stop no moreand idling alot better

Yes
The actual idle data looks good, definet inmprovement...

[mychevyisntheavy]

ok thanks all i did was in the green was make them follow each other. the red i brought them upto what it said.

[dhoagland]

from the log 14-48-00
Here is what I would do to that tune posted with those 3 logs

[dhoagland]

ok thanks all i did was in the green was make them follow each other. the red i brought them upto what it said.

Okay
Interested to see the results... Warning, they probably won't be perfect, thats okay so long as you move in the right direction.
And often times you will overshoot, no worries it happens

[mychevyisntheavy]

If I was going to make adjustments based on this log. I would not touch anything in green.
You can adjust the red numbers by the percent.

yes , i made changes bye 1/2% and worked the red areas more. i think im gonna do another drive to tun the ve, then do the maf tuning

[mychevyisntheavy]

This ^^ we have all been trying to say this, either directly or implied, there is a well defined process to doing this correctly, it varies from person to person but usually relatively similar, the many threads have also been very difficult to follow, at this point im not even sure if the fuel system was characterized properly, i think someone here input the injector data for him? If not that would be step one, and if you are having to start with this step and inputing injector data then you need to start with a fresh file, or at the very least stock airflow, idle, spark tables, and as I mentioned before, every change made should be tied to recorded data

i had decapped tuck injectors with a mail oder tune done bye pcmforless out of ohio, i had a sheet metal intake with a 102mm tbody, and a 3 bar map. al wrong. was just trying to build a hot rod i guess, it was hot alright, i then took the sheet metal intake off, used the injectors for a short amount of time. then got the 34.6 bosch injectors and had someone in here give me the injector data, i didnt know that mattered other than setting the flow rate, but got the right data, trying to make the 102mm tbody towork was not worth the time. so i got rid of it, and then the ve`s i had was so rich that it wouldnt stay running, so i cut the ve bye 25%, mybe lil too much, but it is idling better and wasnt following its self. now i reset the tps. along with setting the iac to rang 40 to 50. it has been running for like 5 years with that sheet mwtal crap decapped and the 102mm junk. so i hope im on a path i want to thank all that has helped. i am hard headed. takes me a little bit to get it sometimes. but it is what it is.

[twenglish1]

Got it, i am remembering now, you are definitely on the right path getting rid of the questionable components, with any engine modifications your airflow models are instantly changed (VE and MAF calibrations) so that instantly becomes one of the variables, so to get everything to work out nicely you need to eliminate as many variables as possible. Another word of advice, and it was touched on a little bit above, there is a whole science behind which data is valid and what isn't, cells with low hit counts are significantly less accurate than cells with higher number of cell hits, you also need to be mindful when using the wideband for all the fueling, not sure what your cam specs are, but the more valve overlap you have the worse it will skew the wideband readings at low RPMs/idle, you also need to make sure you are as smooth as possible on the pedal when recording data, quick pedal movements will skew readings as well.

[mychevyisntheavy]

Got it, i am remembering now, you are definitely on the right path getting rid of the questionable components, with any engine modifications your airflow models are instantly changed (VE and MAF calibrations) so that instantly becomes one of the variables, so to get everything to work out nicely you need to eliminate as many variables as possible. Another word of advice, and it was touched on a little bit above, there is a whole science behind which data is valid and what isn't, cells with low hit counts are significantly less accurate than cells with higher number of cell hits, you also need to be mindful when using the wideband for all the fueling, not sure what your cam specs are, but the more valve overlap you have the worse it will skew the wideband readings at low RPMs/idle, you also need to make sure you are as smooth as possible on the pedal when recording data, quick pedal movements will skew readings as well.

i am trying hard to not allow the engine to go into pe, i am slowly moving the pedal. yea i have a cam,trick flow sloppy stage 2 228*/230* .585*/.585* lobe sep 112* if everything was stock this would be a no brainer. but its not, i did alot of dum things still are lol. not funny really, very nerving at times. soon as i get this thing on a dyno the sooner ill sale my mpvi3.... not lol im addicted to this thing now smh, at lease its not drugs or drinking my self to death. just trying to learn how to not screw it up. you guys are very smart, and i thank you guys alot, cause you dont have to pass on to people. just know this you guys are appreciated. ill help others also.