NON-VVT L92, First Drive, Ran Hot

[7.5in.300BLK]

Thank you! I appreciate your help.

[edcmat-l1]

Holy smokes how can you not know it's only running on 4 cylinders????

And I seriously doubt somehow at exactly 150 degrees they all wake up.

[7.5in.300BLK]

In that case use this file as your base going forward. Some changes you can see...and some you can't due to newer HPT versions removing some options.

Attachment 162872

Wow, thank you.

I'm sorry it took so long to respond, but last night we had a thing happen. It involved plumes of smoke from the tailpipe and an "OH S#!^" moment(by moment, I mean the next 10 hours were spent with me thinking I just destroyed my brand new engine). Turns out the PCV needs a catch can... who would have known... Anyways, that'll be in tomorrow morning, then I'll be back at this. I will flash that tune tomorrow. What should I be expecting to see on the scanner data? Anything in particular I should be looking for? I'll also see if I can't get a good log of what the truck does when bank 2 leans out on cold start. It really is the weirdest thing. I was thinking something like a tune setting to create heat, but I can't find a setting like that or anything abnormal in the tune for ECT vs. [ENTER PARAMETER HERE].

Also, if you could give me an idea of what parameters in a scanner graph to start MAF tuning, that would be great. I have an AEM 30-0334 Wideband kit, I'm just not sure how everyone runs them... or uses them... or how to use one... I know what it does and I know where to stick it, just not how to use it...

[Cringer]

Wow, thank you.

I'm sorry it took so long to respond, but last night we had a thing happen. It involved plumes of smoke from the tailpipe and an "OH S#!^" moment(by moment, I mean the next 10 hours were spent with me thinking I just destroyed my brand new engine). Turns out the PCV needs a catch can... who would have known... Anyways, that'll be in tomorrow morning, then I'll be back at this. I will flash that tune tomorrow. What should I be expecting to see on the scanner data? Anything in particular I should be looking for? I'll also see if I can't get a good log of what the truck does when bank 2 leans out on cold start. It really is the weirdest thing. I was thinking something like a tune setting to create heat, but I can't find a setting like that or anything abnormal in the tune for ECT vs. [ENTER PARAMETER HERE].

Also, if you could give me an idea of what parameters in a scanner graph to start MAF tuning, that would be great. I have an AEM 30-0334 Wideband kit, I'm just not sure how everyone runs them... or uses them... or how to use one... I know what it does and I know where to stick it, just not how to use it...

I didn't really do any tuning, just working on a solid base for you to tune from. Tuning it is not possible based on 2 minutes of open loop logs showing half the engine is not running. I do not suggest running this thing until you get all cylinders firing. You will fuel wash the cylinder walls and destroy the rings and cylinders, lose compression, and lose the motor.

Look here for scanner stuff: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...usp=drive_link

[7.5in.300BLK]

I didn't really do any tuning, just working on a solid base for you to tune from. Tuning it is not possible based on 2 minutes of open loop logs showing half the engine is not running. I do not suggest running this thing until you get all cylinders firing. You will fuel wash the cylinder walls and destroy the rings and cylinders, lose compression, and lose the motor.

Look here for scanner stuff: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...usp=drive_link

It only runs on 4 cylinders until it warms up, then it runs on all 8. I keep trying to share those logs, but they won't load.

[7.5in.300BLK]

I manually commanded injectors 2, 4, 5, and 7, off at the same time, and there was no response from the engine in either RPM drop or rougher idle. Unlike when I turned either 1, 3, 6, or 8 off individually. Then it wanted to die. I am going to be honest, I cannot say for certain it was exactly 150 degrees ECT, or if it is always 150 ECT. It was just a recurring problem that happened to happen when I had my scanner hooked up, and my personal troubleshooter mode turned on when the engine started running right, and I instantly looked at the scanner, saw the engine temp was 152(ish), and watched the long terms on bank 2 drop. I was just sharing what I found when I found it so the guys that deal with this stuff a lot more than me can say, "Yeah, adjust this setting because it handles [thing] at start up, causing the engine to run [rich/lean] to warm up faster. I had that problem on this issue on a [enter random vehicle here] I was working on."

[DanN]

I manually commanded injectors 2, 4, 5, and 7, off at the same time, and there was no response from the engine in either RPM drop or rougher idle. Unlike when I turned either 1, 3, 6, or 8 off individually. Then it wanted to die. I am going to be honest, I cannot say for certain it was exactly 150 degrees ECT, or if it is always 150 ECT. It was just a recurring problem that happened to happen when I had my scanner hooked up, and my personal troubleshooter mode turned on when the engine started running right, and I instantly looked at the scanner, saw the engine temp was 152(ish), and watched the long terms on bank 2 drop. I was just sharing what I found when I found it so the guys that deal with this stuff a lot more than me can say, "Yeah, adjust this setting because it handles [thing] at start up, causing the engine to run [rich/lean] to warm up faster. I had that problem on this issue on a [enter random vehicle here] I was working on."

It's likely that your Odd and Even injectors are on different fuses. Check to see if you have +12VDC on the pink wire on the odd bank. I'd bet you have a shtty power feed connection.

[7.5in.300BLK]

Update: I think I had a problem on my end, I see O2 voltages in the log. B2 looks totally dead. Check for spark and fuel.

The first issue you should be solving is no fire on those B2 cylinders IMHO. You can spit on the headers or spray water on them to find the dead ones.

Did you replace the thermostat? Are you sure the water pump is good and actually moving water?
Do you have cats?

Attached is a tune that disables misfire detection. The ECM freaks out when it thinks there is a misfire, so this will help to eliminate some of the noise. Use this going forward.

Attachment 162867

For some reason it won't let me upload anymore files. I know you guys don't like external links, but this is the best way for me to get you guys these files. This was the first start today. It ran lean on Bank 2 for about 22 minutes, then I walked away, it coughed a few time, like it does, then the bank 2 STs came down and then eventually the LT. I didn't turn off any injectors this time because I just wanted it to do its thing so you can see what it's doing. I did not flash your tune yet either. Again, I was just trying to get a solid log of what I was talking about. I'll admit, I was wrong about it fixing itself at 150. I can't seem to find any correlation with dropping the lean condition. I did install the wideband this time on bank 2. I have it logged in the PID list on the left as well as the big gauge on the right. For some reason, the guages don't register B2S1, but it does in the PID list.

7-24 First Start, B2 Lean With Wideband on Bank 2.hpl: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12cX...ew?usp=sharing

Also, I did a compression test today. I had 180 PSI on all 8 cylinders.

[7.5in.300BLK]

It's likely that your Odd and Even injectors are on different fuses. Check to see if you have +12VDC on the pink wire on the odd bank. I'd bet you have a shtty power feed connection.

2 and 4 are on the right bank, 5 and 7 are on the left...

[7.5in.300BLK]

Welp... anybody know anyone in the Central Illinois area willing to tune my truck for me? I've already canceled half of my camping trip and I'm not getting anywhere on my own. It just seems strange to me that this thing runs like dog $#!^ until it gets close to operating temps then runs on all 8 cylinders. I know enough about fuel injection systems to diagnose drivability issues, but this is new to me... mostly because I don't really know what I'm looking for when it comes to LS proper operating parameters or warm-up conditions. Cringer, I really appreciate what you've done so far. I flashed your tune after I posted the last set of logs, and it did the same thing to about 187, then coughed and ran on all 8 again. I was going to start working on the MAF tonight, but the crankcase pressure blew oil out the rear main again. That was my fault, and I'm sure I fixed that issue, but so far, most of the responses I've gotten have been flak about crap wiring, which doesn't make sense to me when it runs tunable at operating temps. I just glanced at the GM wiring diagrams and I cannot find anything that crosses cylinders 2, 4, 5, and 7 that would tie them together and make them spontaneously shut off... or back on. The only thing I can think of is it's in the tune. The last engine ran well enough before it was pulled and never had a warm up issue. This all seems so strange.

Maybe I'm just feeling defeated right now. It's late again, I am tired. I have been doing this since the 9th. But, at the end of the day, I'm just a dad on a high school teacher's budget trying to take my kids camping. I appreciate all you guys for helping out.

[RDF1]

Time to get to testing.
Get some injector pulse testers and make sure they are getting power/pulses

[Cringer]

Welp... anybody know anyone in the Central Illinois area willing to tune my truck for me? I've already canceled half of my camping trip and I'm not getting anywhere on my own. It just seems strange to me that this thing runs like dog $#!^ until it gets close to operating temps then runs on all 8 cylinders. I know enough about fuel injection systems to diagnose drivability issues, but this is new to me... mostly because I don't really know what I'm looking for when it comes to LS proper operating parameters or warm-up conditions. Cringer, I really appreciate what you've done so far. I flashed your tune after I posted the last set of logs, and it did the same thing to about 187, then coughed and ran on all 8 again. I was going to start working on the MAF tonight, but the crankcase pressure blew oil out the rear main again. That was my fault, and I'm sure I fixed that issue, but so far, most of the responses I've gotten have been flak about crap wiring, which doesn't make sense to me when it runs tunable at operating temps. I just glanced at the GM wiring diagrams and I cannot find anything that crosses cylinders 2, 4, 5, and 7 that would tie them together and make them spontaneously shut off... or back on. The only thing I can think of is it's in the tune. The last engine ran well enough before it was pulled and never had a warm up issue. This all seems so strange.

Maybe I'm just feeling defeated right now. It's late again, I am tired. I have been doing this since the 9th. But, at the end of the day, I'm just a dad on a high school teacher's budget trying to take my kids camping. I appreciate all you guys for helping out.

It is frustrating, I know. But there is nothing in the tune that is going to cause or fix electro-mechanical issues like this. The most logical place to start would be by swapping fuel injectors, coils, plugs, and plug wires to different cylinders to see if the symptoms move. If it is heat related, then perhaps heat expands things and it is causing intermittent contact with some connector...I know...crazy it would be on different banks simultaneously. I assume you have checked grounds.

[DanN]

Did you do any wiring on the harness? Is it possible you got some injector control wires swapped? In any case, I'd still be looking for power at the injectors.

[7.5in.300BLK]

It is frustrating, I know. But there is nothing in the tune that is going to cause or fix electro-mechanical issues like this. The most logical place to start would be by swapping fuel injectors, coils, plugs, and plug wires to different cylinders to see if the symptoms move. If it is heat related, then perhaps heat expands things and it is causing intermittent contact with some connector...I know...crazy it would be on different banks simultaneously. I assume you have checked grounds.

I checked all the grounds. I have 4 attached: one grounding strap on the rear of the driver cylinder head, batt ground on pass front cylinder head, harness ground at the front of the pass cylinder head, and one strap on the block behind the power steering pump. I started it this morning after checking the rear main seal and unplugged injector 2, I was chasing something else so I didn't get into the electrical diag of it, but there was no response from the engine. I did, however, set an Injector 2 circuit code. After it fixed itself, I drove it around a bit. I'm going to try uploading the log again.

7-25 1.30pm First Run.hpl: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ra3...ew?usp=sharing

[gtstorey]

Hard to follow this thread but if this thing is consistently not running on multiple cylinders, have you determined if it is actually firing on all of these cylinders? Aren't the MSD coils considered junk?

And this could be different problems on different cylinders.

[7.5in.300BLK]

Hard to follow this thread but if this thing is consistently not running on multiple cylinders, have you determined if it is actually firing on all of these cylinders? Aren't the MSD coils considered junk?

And this could be different problems on different cylinders.

When I cold start the engine, cylinders 2, 4, 5, and 7 are essentially dead. I can only assume they're dead because I manually disable the injectors through VCM Scanner, all at the same time, and get no change or response from the engine. Then it gets to up to about operating temperature, and all of the cylinders come back online.

[LS ROB]

You may not have the correct cylinders that are not firing. If I remember correctly, Blindsquirrel has said that the numbers doesnt match. So if you turn off injector 1, you may be disabling injector 8. Someone correct me if i'm wrong on that.

[DanN]

The foolproof way to test it would be to unplug the actual injectors, rather than disable through software.

[7.5in.300BLK]

The foolproof way to test it would be to unplug the actual injectors, rather than disable through software.

5 Hours Ago#34
7.5in.300BLK 7.5in.300BLK is offline
Tuner in Training

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Quote Originally Posted by Cringer View Post
It is frustrating, I know. But there is nothing in the tune that is going to cause or fix electro-mechanical issues like this. The most logical place to start would be by swapping fuel injectors, coils, plugs, and plug wires to different cylinders to see if the symptoms move. If it is heat related, then perhaps heat expands things and it is causing intermittent contact with some connector...I know...crazy it would be on different banks simultaneously. I assume you have checked grounds.

I checked all the grounds. I have 4 attached: one grounding strap on the rear of the driver cylinder head, batt ground on pass front cylinder head, harness ground at the front of the pass cylinder head, and one strap on the block behind the power steering pump. I started it this morning after checking the rear main seal and unplugged injector 2, I was chasing something else so I didn't get into the electrical diag of it, but there was no response from the engine. I did, however, set an Injector 2 circuit code. After it fixed itself, I drove it around a bit. I'm going to try uploading the log again.

7-25 1.30pm First Run.hpl: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ra3...ew?usp=sharing

[gtstorey]

You may not have the correct cylinders that are not firing. If I remember correctly, Blindsquirrel has said that the numbers doesnt match. So if you turn off injector 1, you may be disabling injector 8. Someone correct me if i'm wrong on that.

I’m pretty sure that is correct.