When close correcting tables, is it a good idea to smooth only the VE, only, or the maf (horizontal smooth) tables, also?
When close correcting tables, is it a good idea to smooth only the VE, only, or the maf (horizontal smooth) tables, also?
You can definatley smooth the MAF. It is 2 dimentional and you can manually correct dips or bumps. You are not going to hurt anything by trying......I did all kinds of smoothing and arbitrary adjustments.....you can always revert to previous tune.Originally Posted by codename Bil Doe
BTW: You may want to see what someone that actually knows what the hell they are talking about chime in.........
DH
2004 MSG A4
Appearance: Billet Plate&Sill/SS Insert/Screens/Blackout/Lowered/CCW SP500
Perfomance: 416 CI/228-232@114/AFR 225/FAST/LS2 TB/36#Injectors/Honker/RPM(IV)/Vig2400/Z06 Ti/Kooks/3.42 Gear/Hotchkis/Bilstein/Z06 Springs/Eradispeed/Hawk HP+/Trans Cooler/B&M Trans Pan/RonDavies with EOC/Nitto R2's/AMWcan/Rocker Rails/Frame Savers
Mods & Tune: A&A Corvette
??? RWHP / ??? RWTQ
1/4 mile: mid 11's ??
WSIR 1:37.68
I do a pass...hand smooth the MAF table...
hit it again....hand smooth...
I usually dont do a blanket smoothing...sometimes I will use the interpolate between bounds buttons..but I'm usually only highlighting a few cells when I do that...
you can smooth it..you just ned to be picky about where and how much...and it doesnt have to be a perfect curve there is a spot where it will flatten out cause thats what your engine airflow does at the top anyways...its at the same point where your vehicle stops making power and you would still see a slight increas in the values...but thats where the HP and torque just start dropping like a rock
once its close if you have some off wierd spikes then you should uestion whether your VE is dead on or not and possibly relook at VE table again for a sanity check before going back to MAF again
-Scott -
Cool thanks for the input. It's relatively smooth. I just don't want to become obsessed with having it absolutely perfect (and in that case it'll never be perfect because I can always get it a little tighter ).
+/- 3% is about as good as it gets with the stock electronics.
You can get it closer on one day of tuning but weather, engine heat, heat soak, cold start, etc will move it around. That's why they have fuel trims
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I having problems with rpm dipping, Ive read about RAF too low, and since I have C&H + ported maf&TB I acordingly I LOWERED the base Air flow because a hotter cam will suck LESS air (less efficient) @ iddle... stills dip, Ive raising the RAF now is close to stock numbers but I I KNOW this is not right, right!?
I have a date with Eternity, And I don't want to be late!
True. True.Originally Posted by EC_Tune
During this time of year, I go through a 40 degree swing in temperature between my morning scans and my afternoon scan (note: I live in the Phoenix area). I can get the MAF table within < 1% in the cool morning air (across the board), but in the afternoon, when the temp is 40 degrees higher, everything below 5125 Hz varies anywhere between +- 8% AFR error with the same tune and everything above that level goes to about +2.5% (lean).
So, EC_Tune, what electronics will eliminate this variance?
Kipp
2003 Z06 Blk/Blk/Torch Red
2008 3/4T Duramax/Allison
Cylinder Charge Temperature Bias: I move the lower end up near 1.0 and blend in (kind of an s-shaped curve) to about the 70 g/sec line. That will HELP but it isn't a cure-all.
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What ways can we help the temperature problem with a 2000 OS? I read that long post that you guys were talking about this, then at the end I realized I had a 2000 OS and it doesnt change anything lolOriginally Posted by EC_Tune
2002 T/A Firehawk : bilstein/eibach package, auburn
TSP 404 Iron Long block with PRC stage 3 6.0L heads, Texas Giant cam, Fast90, NW90, Kooks 1-7/8", Kooks ORY, Magnaflow/cutout, Spec 2+, Spec Billet Flywheel, Racetronix 37# injectors
Strano Springs, Koni Adjustables
BMR: Q Arm, boxed LCA, PHR, STB.
no real good way to fix this issue pre 2001..Originally Posted by Arcolog
so your best solution is to find a stock 2001+ OS and put it in there
just make sure its compatible with your vehicle(some cars had only a few OS's compatible..some had lots)
-Scott -
Well my car is an 02, but the computer is a 2000, that's where my headaches start lol I dont know what will happen if I start with a 2002 OS
2002 T/A Firehawk : bilstein/eibach package, auburn
TSP 404 Iron Long block with PRC stage 3 6.0L heads, Texas Giant cam, Fast90, NW90, Kooks 1-7/8", Kooks ORY, Magnaflow/cutout, Spec 2+, Spec Billet Flywheel, Racetronix 37# injectors
Strano Springs, Koni Adjustables
BMR: Q Arm, boxed LCA, PHR, STB.
write a 2002 OS to it...you will be mch happierOriginally Posted by Arcolog
-Scott -
Some of the Service Numbers were used in multiple years.
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