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Thread: Tune Review

  1. #1
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    Cool Tune Review

    Hello I would like some input on my current tune on what i could improve on. There is also a few things I've noticed being problems 1 of them is my knock sensors I believe. In my logs sometimes under load/full throttle it pegs straight to the max retard 8. I've been learning how to tune the VE table, and I currently have it setup to tune SD. I also wondered is there anything I need/should change since I changed from the stock stall since the load is in different areas of the RPM band?(CircleD 32-3400). I plan on swapping out the L53 cam and putting in a BTR red hot cam and tune that, so if anyone has pointers there I'd be appreciated. Soon after I'll add a D1SC.
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  2. #2
    Tuner rabbs88's Avatar
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    Your probably knocking because there's 24 degrees of timing in the high octane table when the stock table I compared it to is about 10-11 degrees lower. That or you have the exhaust or something rattling/hitting the frame. I would suggest putting the high octane table back to stock for now.

    Your LTFT seem to be active in the log and it looks like your tuning in open loop so you'll want to fully disable the LTFT or your corrections will be completely off. VE looks ok but could use some more work and the MAF has two spots that could be smoothed out. A quick glance at everything else seems alright.

  3. #3
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    Thank you for your input. I agree with 24 degrees possibly being the issue, but I also feel like it should be able to take 20-22 at the moment or even the 24. Maybe something is hitting the frame I'll look over everything to make sure. There still is a missing magnet lol. And I found out last week that I needed to disable them in the scanner as well so that's fixed. I haven't started tuning the Maf. Since I added the stall do you think the timing can change due to load being higher in the rpm band? Like it crawls at 700 rpm idle in drive and can cruise around 1500-2200 rpm and if I give it more pedal it will flash to 2800-3400 depending on gear and load I believe. So my point is around 800-2200 could I possibly squeeze more timing?

  4. #4
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    Low Octane spark table should be the one referenced when running in SD.

    You might think the MAF is failed in order to run SD, but it isn't. No MAF codes in the Log Details.

    I don't see any HPT OS applied in the Calibration Details. Only one of those SD custom OS's would allow both High and Low spark tables in SD.

  5. #5
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    The other thing is Closed Loop has been disabled, but LTFT's are still active and showing 5.5% in most places.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devon24/7 View Post
    Hello I would like some input on my current tune on what i could improve on. There is also a few things I've noticed being problems 1 of them is my knock sensors I believe. In my logs sometimes under load/full throttle it pegs straight to the max retard 8. I've been learning how to tune the VE table, and I currently have it setup to tune SD. I also wondered is there anything I need/should change since I changed from the stock stall since the load is in different areas of the RPM band?(CircleD 32-3400). I plan on swapping out the L53 cam and putting in a BTR red hot cam and tune that, so if anyone has pointers there I'd be appreciated. Soon after I'll add a D1SC.

    This really looks like it's got a knock sensor code pending. When they do that they will default to pulling max amount of timing anytime you go into PE.. Which is usually 8 degrees. Scan it.. I'll bet you have a knock sensor code after a drive like this. If not I'd still plan on doing new sensors and harness to the knock sensors.
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  7. #7
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    Ok I'm a little confused, but all that means is I have something to learn. I watched Goat Rope Garage on how to do speed density, and that's how I have it set up. In my logs i dont remember it looking like it only referenced the low octane table, but ill have to look. The only Custom OS that it shows is SD 2bar, and SD 3 bar. Also I'll post a more recent file because I'm on a desktop and the files are on my laptop, so I figured out that I still had LTFT's messing up my logs.

  8. #8
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    You are correct I've needed to replace them again I believe. Although this would be like the 3rd or 4th time we've done it since we owned the truck, I don't know if they are really that bad or if it could be a motor mount. although I feel like KR going straight to 8 is kinda a sign of faulty knock sensors

  9. #9
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    Here some more recent logs
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
    Tuner rabbs88's Avatar
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    As stated by Sirius earlier, your MAF isn't failed so your not in speed density. No MAF codes showing in the log. The check engine light needs to be illuminated on your dash to know the MAF is failed. Also explains why your referencing the high octane table (I missed that last time)

    LTFT are not active anymore so that's good.

    Flash your stock spark tables back in and see if that changes your knock issue. It's an easy free troubleshooting step, even though Alvin is probably right as usual

  11. #11
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    As a reminder, something that's caught me out before in reviewing remote logs is that the P0102/P0103 won't show up in the 'Details' tab on the first run cycle after a flash, even though codes are present. They don't show up in a saved log until the second cycle.

    A PID that's always helpful to log is 'Mass Airflow Sensor State'. It'll tell you in real time if it's failed or not.
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  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Devon24/7 View Post
    You are correct I've needed to replace them again I believe. Although this would be like the 3rd or 4th time we've done it since we owned the truck, I don't know if they are really that bad or if it could be a motor mount. although I feel like KR going straight to 8 is kinda a sign of faulty knock sensors
    Knock sensors are EXTREMELY fragile compared to almost any other engine part you will work on. Slightly overtightening on installation is a very common way they are damaged. Pressure washing the engine and replacing the intake manifold are probably the next two most common ways people kill them. I do not know if this is your issue, but it a good thing to be aware of.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    A PID that's always helpful to log is 'Mass Airflow Sensor State'. It'll tell you in real time if it's failed or not.
    Good tip thanks.

  14. #14
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Zero the MAF table and it has no choice.

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  15. #15
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    Awesome so it sounds like I am on the right track. Yes the MAF is failed. Good note from blindsquirrel that makes sense why y'all couldn't see it, also thank you for the tip when I'm tuning SD I'll add Mass Airflow Sensor State to my PIDS. Thank you gametech, and Alvin sounds like I'll be replacing the knock sensors. I had a suspicion that they were bad. Asked my father how he had installed them and yeah sounded like he skipped a couple steps lol. And edcmat-l1 good idea lol give it no option

  16. #16
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    I think my next step is probably some longtube headers, and maybe the TBSS intake because after that it'll be a D1SC and a red hot cam. I know the cam isn't the best choice, but I saw Richard Holdner test it and with a procharger it should be spicy. Also a lot to learn