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Thread: Fuel pump woes on swap vehicle

  1. #1
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    Fuel pump woes on swap vehicle

    LS7 T56 MAGNUM 68 CAMARO

    Guys, I could use some help here. I'm on pump #3 and would like to get some opinions on what may be going on. Wondering what you all are using for fuel pumps in these swap vehicles and if I may have something hindering me in the tune? I do not have a FPCM so that's turned off in the tune. According to the manufacturer, my pump can work with PWM. I have read on TanksInc. that some pumps cannot. Pump 1, I had no idea why it failed, it failed within 2500miles. Thought maybe just a bad unit. Pump 2 would stall out randomly, wait 10 minutes or so and you could prime it with the scanner. Found out that the tank was building pressure. Replumbed the vent tube, increased diameter from 5/16 to 3/8, went from rubber to hardline with rollover valve repositioned to a higher area above fuel tank. Not vapor locked yet.


    Wiring harness is PSI, so it has the fuel pump relay built in. 10 guage wire running to pump.
    Tested wires + & - coming from pump to the wire connectors and ground, had 0 resistance.
    KOEO priming = 12.5v, Engine running = 12.17v
    KOEO priming = 9.05A, Engine running = 8.86A
    Fuel Pump is Ti Automotive(Walbro) GPA-6 series 400lph
    Fuel pressure on FPR = 59psi
    Fuel pressure on Rail Sensor = 59psi Drops to 57psi on WOT pull

    12-6-24 rob VE MAF DONE.hpt
    ve 1.1.hpl
    15 z28 stock tune.hpt

    pump.jpg

  2. #2
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    What's the inlet filter/sock? How far off the bottom of the tank is it? Store bought/premade pump hanger/sending unit or fabricobbled? Is the tank baffled, and if so is there enough flow into the baffle area to keep up with demand?
    Quote Originally Posted by SiriusC1024 View Post
    I think they're junkyard rebuilds.

  3. #3
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    did u look at the old pumps see why they failed ? if u still have one can look in the inlet and try to turn the impeller, if that is ceased its prob debris or got too hot from lack of fuel and melted internally

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS ROB View Post
    LS7 T56 MAGNUM 68 CAMARO

    Guys, I could use some help here. I'm on pump #3 and would like to get some opinions on what may be going on. Wondering what you all are using for fuel pumps in these swap vehicles and if I may have something hindering me in the tune? I do not have a FPCM so that's turned off in the tune. According to the manufacturer, my pump can work with PWM. I have read on TanksInc. that some pumps cannot. Pump 1, I had no idea why it failed, it failed within 2500miles. Thought maybe just a bad unit. Pump 2 would stall out randomly, wait 10 minutes or so and you could prime it with the scanner. Found out that the tank was building pressure. Replumbed the vent tube, increased diameter from 5/16 to 3/8, went from rubber to hardline with rollover valve repositioned to a higher area above fuel tank. Not vapor locked yet.


    Wiring harness is PSI, so it has the fuel pump relay built in. 10 guage wire running to pump.
    Tested wires + & - coming from pump to the wire connectors and ground, had 0 resistance.
    KOEO priming = 12.5v, Engine running = 12.17v
    KOEO priming = 9.05A, Engine running = 8.86A
    Fuel Pump is Ti Automotive(Walbro) GPA-6 series 400lph
    Fuel pressure on FPR = 59psi
    Fuel pressure on Rail Sensor = 59psi Drops to 57psi on WOT pull

    12-6-24 rob VE MAF DONE.hpt
    ve 1.1.hpl
    15 z28 stock tune.hpt

    pump.jpg

    about 10 years ago I had a BBC camaro holley that would melt pumps. It had a tanksinc tank. The pump was mounted too close to the floor.

    Tanksinc makes a nice product. I wasn't involved in original install.

    The pump has a bleed port at the bottom. As I understand it it "waste" a certain amount of fuel just to pass though the pump to cool it.
    Tuner at PCMofnc.com
    Email tuning!!!, Mail order, Dyno tuning, Performance Parts, Electric Fan Kits, 4l80e swap harnesses, 6l80 -> 4l80e conversion harnesses, Installs

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner abc's Avatar
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    Pressure building in the tank will not kill the pump, vacuum building in the tank has a much better chance of killing the pump but you will likely stall the engine before the pump dies.

    As mentioned already, your issue is more likely a pickup issue. Do you know the micron size of the pickup strainer? Are you sure you are not smashing the pump into the bottom of the tank? Are you sure you are not getting counterfeit pumps?
    Last edited by abc; 12-07-2024 at 12:28 PM.

  6. #6
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    Maybe Bosch pumps are a better bet? If you decide to re-engineer your pump system, look into VaporWorx.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    What's the inlet filter/sock? How far off the bottom of the tank is it? Store bought/premade pump hanger/sending unit or fabricobbled? Is the tank baffled, and if so is there enough flow into the baffle area to keep up with demand?
    Replacement sock was changed with the newest pump. The fuel system is all store bought items from Tanksinc., so its not fabricobbled (i'm stealing that <---<<) I think you guys are right about the pump being too close to the bottom of the tank. I did address that on this install, but the prior install was too close. So close that it kicked the pump sideways which rubbed up on the slosh tube. I don't know how i didn't notice that. Prolly high from gas fumes, but a poor install on my part none the less. Wasn't sure if there was something in the tune that may have helped contribute to the issue. Appreciate your responses!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pannetron View Post
    Maybe Bosch pumps are a better bet? If you decide to re-engineer your pump system, look into VaporWorx.
    Not sure about Bosch being good pumps but id say more likely to have less counterfeits. lol I do believe the first pump I received was a fake walbro. It lasted less than 2500 mi. I'll see how long this one lasts and look into VaporWorx if needed. Sounds like I just made a poor install.