new ecu no crank cant see PRNDL changing

[blindsquirrel]

The two ECMs are the same service number, and the tune files are for the same VIN. There won't be any greater risk of bricking anything than any other write-entire with a file that was pulled out of the same ECM.

The goal of this test would be to have the exact same calibration/segments in the new ECM hardware and see if any of the weird behavior is changed.

What led to the conclusion that the old ECM was bad?

[blindsquirrel]

...and, the only reason I'd consider this (a file with all the segments from the original) as being worth a shot is that I can't see the Calibration History for this VIN in SPS. If that worked like I'm used to and if both files had the same segment IDs and only the CVNs were different, I would be pretty sure it wouldn't be worth trying. Or, if the 'calibration history' thing listed both sets of segment IDs, the ones in the old ECM just being from an older revision but correct for that VIN.

This is the lookup I keep mentioning: https://tis2web.service.opel.com/tis2web/ - however, if you have a SPS/Techline subscription, does that give you a way to look up revision history that us non-subscribers aren't allowed to look at anymore? The old TIS2000 had that feature, I dunno about the system they have now.

[ineptmath]

i will come back and re go over this stuff, i really appreciate the sound board. im currently just probing bcm making sure all my voltages are correct. then i have to go learn what they are ment to be under what condition ect. so bare with me please.

the original ECU was running terribly inconsistent sparking bad fuel delivery. (i dont have data to quantify this i was driving across country trying to get it home to fix what i though was either parts or engine issues) the car died on me under WOT, car cutt out and RPM gauge dipped.
i heard no hard snap or give of anything i would consider to be a mechanical part.

i pulled over to side of road and had crank but no start, i had fuel to the rails. i got towed into the closest town. (i know zero about electronics before this) i bought a multi meter and started trying to learn shit.
the fuel pump relay was clicking constantly although i had fuel being delivered to the rails still no start (didnt test spark).
i hooked up my computer and i was unable to talk to the ECM via hptuners OR via ODBxPlorer i could still see the TCM, i cant remember what the exact message was now. but it just couldnt see the ecu. couldnt read a vin or ecu file. the field was just blank. but i could pull tcm calibration
the yard i was working in i couldnt even open the door over 1/3rd.

i got the car home and had no crank no start. noticed the signal wire to the starter had fallen off. put it back on still no crank.
i changed out the relays and it gave same issue(fuel pump relay being the main one that was engaging/disengaging the other i believe ignition/spark relay was fine).

i did some more testing couldnt get a read. i swapped out a ecu i had sitting in a wreck out the front just happened to be same year and serv#. asoon as i put it in i could read it and the relays stopped clicking
i still had no crank no start.
i jumped the starter (signal to power short) and it ran and ran well. didnt have any of the backfiring or missing that it had exhibited on first ecu.
a day later i put old ecu back in to test it. still no crank/start. but interestingly it didnt click the relays.
i jumped the singal and starter and it started and ran. but it ran like shit. missing back firing. it died very shortly into it.
then when i gave ignition ON relays started clicking again.

with the replacement ECU if short the starter to get it to run it seems quiet happy pedals responsive will sit there and run for aslong as there is fuel in the tank. with tech2win i can see that the transmission has voltage i can see that BCM can pickup and clear codes. it will drive (dunno how well being a tq based system as i dont know what the transmission really is getting from the computer) but i drove it comfortably enough to just maneuver it into a better work space. i cant get gear selection pid in hptuners or other odb programs. car dosnt know that its in park to engage parking lights, car doesnt engage reverse lights. if you want more information let me know eg. the setup TCM-BCM-ECU. happy to provide any information im able. just remember i hardly know what im doing here so it will take me longer

i havnt done any further testing on orig ECU. yes i know my methodology is crap my process is inefficient and sloppy. guess what(not directed at u blind just generalization and i really appreciate your help and time), im not a classically trained mechanic im not an electrical engineer im just a bloke getting off his ass and getting it done. so i appreciate any tips/hints/tricks OR critisms /w what i should of been doing. or should do. cheers.
just fyi im not a complete spaz, i have done a full engine build. few cam swaps and fixed a few engines. tuned some cars (not well) this is just a big learner for me. but welcome it with open arms. can only imagine the shit ill be able to do after this one is fixed

[blindsquirrel]

This is the new/current file, with all the ECM segments from the old ECM, in case you wanna take a swing at it.
new ecu ute vin tcmnecu read stock values ecu - segments swapped.hpt

[ineptmath]

ill give it a swing now and check. just 1 question. in the calibration details tab. should i change the security key to the key from the ecu ? again many thanks. never mind thats not changeable only lock/unlock status for tunerlocking
update:: no noticeable difference mate. thanks for trying though. ive been trying to get a signal/wire tracer but theyve all been cable tracers. ill just have to open the loom and trace it through the firewall. im almost certain now(meaning i have no idea) regardless of other faults that i have a problem closer to the battery. (im not getting crank request on scanner tech2win run/crank test does nothing)
so ill work on that.
photo_2025-02-08_13-18-10.jpgphoto_2025-02-08_13-18-07.jpg

[ineptmath]

ok so no real headway yet. but heres the update.
TCM pin 3 og/bk park / neutral switch is giving 11v instead of grnd @ the starter relay. grounding this starts the vehicle via key.
im guessing i need to probe the back of the connecter on the trans whilst its plugged in and in park to see if its giving me grnd there or volts

im not sure where if ever this input goes into the BCM none of my currect paper work is showing me that circut

[blindsquirrel]

TCM pin 3 goes to the ECM's P/N signal input. The ECM has a pullup resistor inside so unless the other end of that wire's being grounded inside the trans, it will be at 12v (effectively an open circuit). The START signal goes from the switch to BCM, then to ECM over CAN. The ECM then only activates the starter if its X1 pin 1 is pulled to ground by the IMS.

Unplug the trans connector. Pin 3 on the harness side should be voltage. The corresponding pin in the trans should be ground in P or N. If it never changes as you move the shift linkage, time to drop the pan and see what's up with the IMS and why it's not supplying ground in P/N.

screenshot.09-02-2025 01.24.56.png screenshot.09-02-2025 01.28.56.png

[ineptmath]

pin3, on the loom on round TCM connector, 11v same as the other end of the wire where its connecting to the start relay. when i ground it on pin3 in the trans it gives me 11v. whilst in park. i just need to confirm that the ground is in the transmission and not another wire

[blindsquirrel]

Are you sure trans pin 3 goes to the relay? It should go to the ECM. Ground that wire = Park/Neutral = ECM output to starter relay is enabled, no ground (~12v) = R or D = starter disabled.

With the trans connector unplugged, pin 3 on the trans side should be ground in P/N, and open circuit in anything else.

[ineptmath]

pin 3 in the transmission was ground, pin5 which is also a chasis ground that i used as a test. is also ground. OG/BK from the relay im pretty sure is the same cable. i havnt opened the loom up. but gives me the same readings. if i ground that it lets me start via key.
i cant get reverse lights to work. he has some bypass/custom wiring on the BCM photo i showed. if i ground the green wire. which is the backup lamp relay control X4 Pin24 constant 12V on key then i get reverse lights.

again i dunno whats going on here im just reversing some one elses build and trying to fix it all. i do know that it was all working though. apparently since 2016(dunno whats changed in it over those years)
can still put it into drive/park/reverse mechanically but computer just dosnt tell me anything
ill hook up tech2win and have a look what i can see now

couldnt see anything that stuck out to me. transmission has a different vin then the original vin i got with the ecu. being 6g1ep4ey6al427363 also from a 2010 holden auto ute. dont know if thats relevant can post pictures if u want/need.

i have another 6l80e from 2010 out the back i can open that up and swap out IMS, known working 6months ago when it was last used lol. im reading up about IMS and it seems that controls the PRNDL

i need to work tomorrow but ill do some more testing when i get a chance im not sure if my electrical knowledge is confusing me or not i need to get all the pin readings again

[blindsquirrel]

If the ECM is controlling the starter relay then the P/N switch needs to go to the ECM.

[ineptmath]

start working on it all in a moment, just tested IMS, seems to give continuity at all the correct gear selections on each pin. : https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...8/view?tab=t.0
ill start working back from this and see what i find,

just stopped for a minute because of the rain how can i test that the BCM is actually sending the signal onto the ECU.

my understanding is that PRNDL should be sent to the bcm then bcm to ecu ?

no real update: still alot of questions ill just update after i get it sorted. relay in bcm allowed tail lights when feeding it 12v melted a tail light fuse still didnt start. indicative of a short to earth in the wiring. update after i figure it out
give it another week may just have to bite the bullet and just make my own harness and rig it up so i understand whats happening.
will tidy thread when i get around to that so at least theres some answers for the next bloke

[ineptmath]

alright latest update.
testing the P N safety switch @ the trans plug and if grounding that the car would start. lead me to believe that the TECHM had failed in some manner. so i made an extension loom and hooked it up to a working tranny i had (both 0VCAor what ever it is ), instantly fired. so changed the valve body out it now starts on demand gives reverse lights and shows what gear im commanding in VCM. just need to clean some shit up and then take it for a test drive.

current TCM is using sedan inputs in the fields. should i flash the 4x4 values in?, both tcm's have same osid's and segments.
then get trans to running temp, then in VCM scanner learn adapts and adapt presets ?

so this is my guess but i could be wrong here obviously and would love a more informed person to chime in. ECU failed, and was exhibiting issues prior to complete comms failure. could the resistor in the ecu have gone then that ruined the tcm ? also i have no idea why the techm isnt grounding yet. i will follow this up. IMS gave me correct coninuity ranges. but on my second inspection i did notice the 2nd normal bolt(not the e11) was loose by 4 turns.

cheers love some information to help me understand