Tuning guidance, about to go N2O (2000 LS1 A4)

[Ouija]

Okay,

I've been tuning my 2000 A4 LS1 TA for about 5 months now in SD mode from Ws6SnakeEaters directions and guidance from TxHorns281.

Yeah, yeah, I know, 5 months...

I've had the MAF unplugged and just been tweaking it a little at a time to bring all the cells closer to eachother. I'm not in a rush, prefer to get things right, versus breaking something by being impatient.

I have changed everything before the heads, and everything out of the engine block. Full intake & exhaust. Have my new injectors set right in the IFR Table.

I obviously don't want to pop my motor so I need to work on learning what not to mess up. (The N20 wet kit has every safety precaution, WOT Switch, Window switch, Fuel pressure safety switch, etc.)

I've been getting my VE pretty nuts on. It's almost all between 1 and -4 currently. (Will get it 0 to -4 once it comes off the jackstands this weekend.)

I've noticed some Knock Retard in about 4 cells so I figure I need to tune that out after finishing nailing down the VE.

I haven't played with the AFR, or Timing Advance at all, they are still stock. I've heard that's where people go wrong with N20, they screw up the Advance and Retarding of timing, or just simply spary the motor into oblivioun at the wrong RPM's.

Someone have a direction for me to start looking at?

Car will come off the jack stands this weekend with 3.42's, full hidden N20 w/goodies, guages, and a 3200 Vigilante Stall, so I know I need to tune the gears, and some other misc items, but would like some guidance.

(TxHorns281 if yer out there give me a call sometime, or AIM me!)

[Ouija]

I find that apparently I often come here to just ask myself questons. :-/

[Arron]

have never played with N2O myself but have read about it a little over on ls1tech you may find a few answers there .Thought about getting a wet kit as the price here seems quite good but a few other things will come first.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10

I find that apparently I often come here to just ask myself questons.

i get that a little too

[Turo]

For my TNT 100 wet, I am running the stock timing tables (no knock retard) and an A/F ratio of around 12.0:1. With a dry kit you may have to do some more fuel tweaking as opposed to a wet kit.

What kit are you going with? Wet or dry?

[Ouija]

For my TNT 100 wet, I am running the stock timing tables (no knock retard) and an A/F ratio of around 12.0:1. With a dry kit you may have to do some more fuel tweaking as opposed to a wet kit.

What kit are you going with? Wet or dry?

It's a wet kit. I'm calling it FrankeN2O because it's got a NX N2O solenoid but a TNT fuel solenoid. I bought it used so I'm having to locate a few fittings for it and a relay that somehow were "lost". Everything I've purchased otherwise is NX ( bottle heater, purge kit, fuel pressure safety switch, wot switch, window switch, etc.)

About to go look at that link to LS1 tech. Thanks for the input so far

[MNR-0]

Ttroubleshooting knock usually involves one fo 2 things:

adding fuel at the knock event and surrounding cells
removing timing at the knock event and surrounding cells

Very simplistic I know. But its worked for me.