OK I bought 80's to go along with my TVS so I'm in the same boat here...
Which is the 'right', 'correct', 'proper', or 'best' way to tune the 80's?
1: Set Short Pulse Limit to 4ms and run half the value in the spreadsheet in the Short Pulse Adder tables?
2: Set Short Pulse Adder to 0ms and put whatever you want in the Short Pulse Adder Table because it isn't being used?
Running a fuel pump rewire, won't affect these values, right?
Either one works. Method #1 is closer to the 'proper' way... but if you still get a rich idle, you have to switch to method #2... there is no way around it.Originally Posted by csementuh
So basically... try running the half values first. If it doesn't fix the problem, then just zero out the adder.
Tyler
hmmm, im gonna go try this
2011 CTS-V Coupe - 1993 Mazda RX7
*The most powerful designs are always the result of a continuous process of simplification and refinement.*
Thank you! I will try 1 first after I get my 80's in.
I tried the 0ing out and 4 with 1/2 adder and I still get hunting idle. It has gotten better but not perfect.
I am going to try the 1st method tomorrow since I just saw this. I have it zeroed right now and my car idles fine for a second then idles up around 1050, and if I let it idle for about a minute it just goes completely lean and wont snap out of it unless I turn it off and restart it. Hopefully this fixes it!
FYI... you're running ridiculously large injectors... it will never be 'perfect'. The best you can hope for is 'good', where is doesn't surge a bunch, and doesn't go stupid rich.
Tyler
With the short pulse adders set a 4ms, my car extremely rich. With the short pulse adders zero'd, the car still ran pretty rich at like 11-13AFR. After I adjusted the MAF scaling with my wideband it now idles at a proper AFR, but the idle does hunt a tiny bit and it's certainly not perfect. But.. like Omega said, the injectors are huge, so you can't expect perfect. I may try to add the adders back in now that the MAF is better and see how it feels.
My question is... The 80's screwed my fuel trims like crazy... Like 20+ % bad. What is the best way to get those back in check? I setup a wideband input based 'WB AFR Error %' user defined PID with the value '100*([AUX.20121]-[SENS.121])/[SENS.121]' I believe that is reading the WB input and dividing it by the commanded AFR to get the error %. I then plot that against the 'MAF Airflow vs Output Frequency' table to get the error at each MAF cell. That is right, right (for scaling the MAF properly)? My question is though is that I saw a recommendation to put in '[PID.6200]>1.5' for the histogram filter to ignore shorter pulsewidths. Is that correct? I have DFCO DISABLED, but my WB will still hit full lean on shifts, and when slowing down off throttle, which seems weird because DFCO is set to off (I know the clutch in will cause lean AFRs). Is there a better filter I should run, or should I not run one at all? A better way to get my outrageous fuel trims back in line? If if my MAF shows little error, it seems that the STFT is still +-20. I have LTFT turned off right now in the tune because I'm trying to get everything dialed in.
Also has anyone written or seen a good timing tutorial so I can get my timing dialed in good?
Thanks!
Using a filter is a good idea. You want to work on your MAF scaling using data taken during steady state so that you aren't mis-adjusting the value due to all of the adders/subtractors/etc affecting the delivered fuel. Once your MAF is "good" based on that, then you know that any afr variance is a result of needing to adjust the other tables that deal with transients and change.
I can't say which those are since I am still learning myself, but the idea is to get a solid base and then tweak the other stuff that uses these base values as as starting point.
Kenne Bell Supercharged 2003 Corvette Z06
hmmm, well for me my idle isnt rich anymore just seems too lean. The wideband has it bouncing from 14.1-15.3, unless that is normal. And another thing that seems odd is when im cruising it seems to lean out and when i let off the throttle it will richen. also when i go into boost (not high boost) it will still sit around high 14's and low 15's afr.
2011 CTS-V Coupe - 1993 Mazda RX7
*The most powerful designs are always the result of a continuous process of simplification and refinement.*
I'm sure everyone here has already figured it out, but I goofed on the injector settings..... thats what I get for working late on the weekends. But if anyone needs the updated tune for their stage kit just send me an email at [email protected] with your order number and I'll get it sent right out.
thanks for the update! but the updated tune still has me rich at idle, around 11.0-11.3.. havent taken it for a drive yet tho
2011 CTS-V Coupe - 1993 Mazda RX7
*The most powerful designs are always the result of a continuous process of simplification and refinement.*
So with all of these rich issues on the 80's...
After you adjust your injector tables to the proper value, what is the next step?
Will dialing in your MAF (and VE if you use it) fix the AFR issues? I've noticed my closed loop is decent now after some wideband logging to fix to MAF, but my open loop is still terrible as I'm going to about 9.1 WOT and the car hiccups hard. Will dialing in the upper ranges of the MAF help this? Also any ideas why my STFT will still fluctuate +-20 even then my wideband is reading spot on and the car is running great at low loads?
I have 80s and idle right at 14.7-15.2 But I started my car let it warm up to proper temps my iat 2 was a consistant 110. Then I tuned the maf and now it sits right at 14.7. I am also using a maf only tune.
What car and what kind of intake are you running?
I'm running a RAW 3" intake on a Cobalt SS/SC and I think my intake might be skewing my trims at low airflow. I know MAF resolution isn't great low-end, but I do have quite a bit of resolution.
Also cold startups the car sits at 8.8-10.x for a min before it warms up. It should be richer, but not thatttt bad. Where does one edit that one?
random question, but what should a good gap on the plugs be?
2011 CTS-V Coupe - 1993 Mazda RX7
*The most powerful designs are always the result of a continuous process of simplification and refinement.*
A saturn ion redline same engine and everything. I have the stock intake maybe thats why.
I completely understand. I was still having issues with the 4ms. So I again switched to 0 and now it doesnt even hunt. Dont know the AFR's because I dont have a WB but the trims are looking better than before.
Depending what you are running but .032
I have tuned some more last night and this morning and my 80's tune doesnt hunt for idle or surge anymore. Seems to be working very well. Still got some trims to work out, but my car feels great! Got into 1/2-3/4 throttle today. Have not done that since the build.
Glad to hear you got it working. Mine is running better after some more MAF WB tuning, however my STFT are still pretty wacky at lower loads.
How much are STFT supposed to fluctuate? Right now I have my LTFT's turned off to help make tuning eaiser. My MAF histogram will only get the lower cells of my MAF scaling to within about -2 to -4 AFR error. I have logged and modified the tune many times now. Is this just because the low end resoltuion on a MAF is inaccurate? Or an intake problem? I even adjusted my PE a little bit even tho it's turned off in the tune...
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