lnf knock that i cant get rid of :(

[projectlnf]

here ya go latest log

[stromboli86]

definitely a lot less KR, the slower spool could be due to the 85% WGDC on spool up... just was not used to seeing that before lol. And Either my config's table didnt load or you edited it because a few of the parameters were not showing on the log

[projectlnf]

Actually I found the main reason why I'm not boosting like I used to... Intercoooler is cracked so I have a guy welding it up right now as we speak I'll update you later on how it runs after the weld and 86 I dono what happened I loaded them and it looked exactly like my cnfg :/

[gn2beatu]

Have you tried disabling Burst KR just as a test to see if thats it? Zero it out for a log to see.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

burst doesnt register as kr since its not transmitted through the knock sensor. kr value in the scanner is a direct input from the knock sensor only.

[projectlnf]

well the intercooler is welded back up... all seemed well until i hit 30 psi and the the hot side charge pipe blew off lol so i fixed that and now the car is back down to around 23 psi but now at higher rpms i get miss fires... it never ends lol my knock is almost gone though!

[cobaltssoverbooster]

I think they need more heat in their welds
And since the boost hits that front side the hardest it should be back filled in the corners before the rear plate is installed
That would double the hold strength in that front plate which is the usual suspect in these aluminum coolers

[projectlnf]

I think they need more heat in their welds
And since the boost hits that front side the hardest it should be back filled in the corners before the rear plate is installed
That would double the hold strength in that front plate which is the usual suspect in these aluminum coolers

i dont know what they need lol but it cracked and that is the cold side of the intercooler. honestly i think i hit something because that is the big intercooler it hangs down at least 1.5 inches from my bottom lip

[cobaltssoverbooster]

yea but you dont have deep score marks in the crack location so you didnt hit it from what i see in the picture

[cobaltssoverbooster]

do you have an aftermarket boost gauge?
if your using the factory one it is useless past 23psi....
your not logging throttle body position just pedal i cant tell if its closing the plate or not...
cyl 3 and 1 have the most missfires, since the eco firing order is 1 3 4 2 i bet cylinder 1 is missing (at one point 7 hits) and carring into the signal produced by cyl 3.
i would say for now verify the plug gap, or if needed buy new ones and verify the gaps. so you dont get blowout.

[projectlnf]

do you have an aftermarket boost gauge?
if your using the factory one it is useless past 23psi....
your not logging throttle body position just pedal i cant tell if its closing the plate or not...
cyl 3 and 1 have the most missfires, since the eco firing order is 1 3 4 2 i bet cylinder 1 is missing (at one point 7 hits) and carring into the signal produced by cyl 3.
i would say for now verify the plug gap, or if needed buy new ones and verify the gaps. so you dont get blowout.

i was allready in the process of pulling the plugs lol im checking gap on them here soon..

update you in a few hours

[|V3nom|]

maybe you should have tried to get a new ic from hahn since the weld cracked.

[projectlnf]

maybe you should have tried to get a new ic from hahn since the weld cracked.

sorry its so late but we had no power for a couple days because of a bad storm.. and i have a guy who welds really well and i got it for free so cant beat that.. and it would take a couple days to get the new hahn intercooler and i didnt want to ruin anything else but everything is good now. thanks guys!

[|V3nom|]

so you fixed the misfire and kr problem?

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Broken
Intercooler caused everything

[|V3nom|]

i thought he said he got misfires after getting the ic fixed?

[projectlnf]

ohh i did get missfires but that was plug gapping these motors are very sensitive lol i had a gap of 36 and i gapped to 32 and its perfect now. right now im actually testing out a theory another member had. . and for the life of me i cant find his thread.. but he was a gm tech and he said the knock sensors needed to be clocked a different way to get rid of false knock he has had succes with it thus far so im trying to find out where mine need to be in order for my false knock to go away.. ill update tomm afternoon when i clock them a different way right now no change and my sensors are both at 90 degrees to the drivers side of the car..

[cobaltssoverbooster]

u mean the knock sensor thread in my sig haha
knock sensor installation should be 90* from vertical with the lead wires pointing toward the front of the engine (towards cyl 1, Timing chain, accessory drive, ect.)

thats straight up tech manual and iirc from reading like 3 hours ago he had best results in factory position....id have to read again ive been reading megasquirt shit all night lol

[projectlnf]

u mean the knock sensor thread in my sig haha
knock sensor installation should be 90* from vertical with the lead wires pointing toward the front of the engine (towards cyl 1, Timing chain, accessory drive, ect.)

thats straight up tech manual and iirc from reading like 3 hours ago he had best results in factory position....id have to read again ive been reading megasquirt shit all night lol

didnt even click on it lol but yeah i followed that thread and im clocking them to 9 oclock today i clocked them to 3 oclock yesterday and it did a little bit but i hear they are having better luck with 9 oclock

[stromboli86]

any knock sensor i have ever dealt with you torque to a spec, unless the LNF is different i would not expect clocking to help... if you loosen it to move to 9 oclock, i would expect it to pick up less knock, if you tighten vise versa.