Why inconsistant fueling in SD?

[GrannySShifting]

If you look at 6700rpm in 2nd gear for example, wildly different results in injector duty cycle and pulsewidth. I noticed ethanol content varied from 75% to 82% but thats not much of a change, and the highest content was the one with the lowest pulsewidth doesnt make sense.

The intake air is 20-40 degrees higher on the two leaner ones, but power enrich IAT adder is zero'd at those temps

A/F ratio Commanded changes, but the richest one shown is actually the leanest of the 3 so that makes no sense (Log1) and that 230 degree engine temp should have it adding .047 to Power Enrich also?

Stuff definitely not adding up, Id say fuel pressure might be wavering if I just saw the output data but ECU is TELLING it to go leaner when it should be saying go richer

[kingtal0n]

The engine is overheating. Timing is all over the place. There is a bunch of knock in boost. The intake air temp is very high if that is accurate. Too high if this is a turbo car. Please tell me this is a supercharged engine with little to no intercooling.

The air fuel ratio you see on the wideband isn't going to make sense unless everything is tuned properly. Such low timing (7* at 133KPA by 4000rpm) is leaving fuel burning in the exhaust, rising coolant temps and oxygen with it will rise the A/F ratio on the gauge.

With this post I can't tell what kind of engine, what kind of forced induction, what to expect, you should provide more details for more specific help. But right off the bat you need to get a handle on the timing and coolant temps and work on the IAT and knock if possible.

[GrannySShifting]

The engine is overheating. Timing is all over the place. There is a bunch of knock in boost. The intake air temp is very high if that is accurate. Too high if this is a turbo car. Please tell me this is a supercharged engine with little to no intercooling.

The air fuel ratio you see on the wideband isn't going to make sense unless everything is tuned properly. Such low timing (7* at 133KPA by 4000rpm) is leaving fuel burning in the exhaust, rising coolant temps and oxygen with it will rise the A/F ratio on the gauge.

With this post I can't tell what kind of engine, what kind of forced induction, what to expect, you should provide more details for more specific help. But right off the bat you need to get a handle on the timing and coolant temps and work on the IAT and knock if possible.

Yes this I know. These are logs guy sent from track. But i want to see the maths add up before I dove deeper into fixing this thing. Its a Procharged 4th gen cammed 5.7 i think with their standard intercooler, which I dont remember being all that bad at 600hp but this is obviously hot. AIr/fuel ratio was fine and consistant on dyno, but I wasnt obviously making pulls with it at that temp. That being said though, the PE Adder vs Coolant temp is not adding that much fuel, and the IAT adder is 0'd so that SHOULDNT be affecting it.

[kingtal0n]

I Would
1. fix the timing so it makes sense
2. pressure test the plumbing to make sure the compressor isn't running off it's map blowing hot air
3. Improve fuel quality if iat is still high and knock is still present to see if knock dissipates once those are done

If the air fuel still doesn't make sense once these are fixed it may related to a misfire, plugs could be fouled, worn out, wrong gap, or a plugwires are old, torn, arc, etc...
Make sure using cold enough heat range. At 18-25psi on gasoline fuels I use NGK 8 heat range iridium 0.028 to 0.032"

[phuz]

The engine is overheating. Timing is all over the place. There is a bunch of knock in boost. The intake air temp is very high if that is accurate. Too high if this is a turbo car. Please tell me this is a supercharged engine with little to no intercooling.

The air fuel ratio you see on the wideband isn't going to make sense unless everything is tuned properly. Such low timing (7* at 133KPA by 4000rpm) is leaving fuel burning in the exhaust, rising coolant temps and oxygen with it will rise the A/F ratio on the gauge.

With this post I can't tell what kind of engine, what kind of forced induction, what to expect, you should provide more details for more specific help. But right off the bat you need to get a handle on the timing and coolant temps and work on the IAT and knock if possible.

Do you think this is false knock from the very low timing and unburnt fuel? I actually encountered this when I was first getting my base tune up and had timing that was too conservative in conjunction with overly rich fueling.

[kingtal0n]

Thats why I said fix all the tuning stuff then if necessary once its tuned and running well if you see knock raise the octane and pull out some timing make it richer etc...

False knock won't generally respond to changes you make because whatever is making the noise is often unrelated to the combustion event. That isn't always true but its a place to start from.
Real knock or noise from combustion like knock will respond to changes. Even if it doesn't go away if it just changes when you make changes its a sign something with the way the combustion event is being noisy is influencing the sensor.
At that point you can keep increasing octane and removing timing and playing with air fuel. If you determine the knocking persist despite extremely safe settings it may become necessary to make physical changes like teflon tape on the knock sensors or checking their torque spec or changing the sensitivity depending on the results you get from trial and error. On the other hand if the engine is knocking with very safe settings that is a sign of bottom end issues. You should reduce the boost pressure as part of diagnostics to confirm tuning related (safe settings vs compression ratio and expectations) vs physical bottom end component noise if it comes to that.

In a stand-alone computer depending on the ECU there are other ways to deal with this, like baseline engine noise thresholds sampling (easier to tell than OEM) and bandwidth for detection and sampling period/intervals and you could even force the engine to ping a little bit on purpose to see the kind of noise it makes as confirmation. But in the OEM ecu the options are limited, it is harder to tell what the ECU is sensing and whether or not the detection strategy is even related to the knocking noise ranges of the engine internals if they are modified. It may be that the frequency of knock is partially outside of what the sensors or ecu is able to detect for example.