Default C6 MAF and Schematics and diagnostics

[nocopnostopp]

The steps from my Camaro manual would be easy to interpret that way. I had to read it a couple of times to figure out what it was trying to say. And I was involved in that discussion.

I tested the continuity from the ECM X1 harness to my APP terminal D and there is a break. If anyone has any insight as to common harness damage points, or if it is a split harness to another bulkhead somewhere in the vehicle, I would appreciate any advice I can get.

Thanks!

P.S. thanks to blindsquirrel and edcmat-l1 for being such supportive community members and believing in me!

ECM X1.png

[gtstorey]

Factory wiring diagram will show intermediate connectors if any.

[nocopnostopp]

Factory wiring diagram will show intermediate connectors if any.

Thanks,
This is the only wiring diagram that I have. It does not show any intermediate connectors. However I do not know if this is simplified or not.

factory wiring diagram.png

[edcmat-l1]

Thanks,
This is the only wiring diagram that I have. It does not show any intermediate connectors. However I do not know if this is simplified or not.

factory wiring diagram.png

I can tell you with certainty that not an OEM wiring diagram.

[nocopnostopp]

Would you like to provide one?

[edcmat-l1]

Alldatadiy.com

[nocopnostopp]

As I thought, nothing useful comes out of you like always. Your reputation online precedes you, no wonder you barely get any business anymore. I can't imagine being on a forum just to troll people trying to fix problems. You must be a very sad person in real life. Desperate for attention? Bullied in high school/adulthood/every day to this day? You're irrelevant. Anyway!

Solved my issue. Turns out there was a kind soul that sent me the ECU schematic and the low reference diagram to ECU. So I was able to identify the break at the X180 connector on the male C1, where the wire coming in had been cut by something. All good now, the code is no longer current. Yay.
low reference to ecu.png

[gtstorey]

Maybe you should add "for free" to all of your request for information. Because edcmat's response was accurate, just not free.

[nocopnostopp]

Information is free

[edcmat-l1]

As I thought, nothing useful comes out of you like always. Your reputation online precedes you, no wonder you barely get any business anymore. I can't imagine being on a forum just to troll people trying to fix problems. You must be a very sad person in real life. Desperate for attention? Bullied in high school/adulthood/every day to this day? You're irrelevant. Anyway!

Solved my issue. Turns out there was a kind soul that sent me the ECU schematic and the low reference diagram to ECU. So I was able to identify the break at the X180 connector on the male C1, where the wire coming in had been cut by something. All good now, the code is no longer current. Yay.
low reference to ecu.png

That's funny. I have a shop full of work. Don't need to advertise.

Sorry I was not willing to hold your hand and teach you how to use a voltmeter properly and find correct wiring diagrams, you know basic shit a high school kid should know. I tried to point you in the right direction multiple times and you've been an ungrateful asshole about it.

[gtstorey]

Information is free

Of course not.

[nocopnostopp]

The HiTech Tuning Experience ™84oiuq.jpg

[edcmat-l1]

I have been mending my wiring harness in my 2008 C6Z06.

Chances are you screwed something up.

So I was able to identify the break at the X180 connector on the male C1, where the wire coming in had been cut by something. All good now, the code is no longer current. Yay.

Huh look at that. Ol' Ed the jerk is right again.

[nocopnostopp]

I want to verify that I did not mess anything up when fixing the harness looms and I did not break any connections first. This is going to be tedious but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

You missed the part where I said that in the first post. Ol' Ed the jerk can't read again.

84oiuq.jpg

[SiriusC1024]

I'm going to give you a pointer on using the meter. Checking continuity with tone is fine. Get in the habit of verifying voltages. For example, if you're checking from some pin to say the engine block, verify that the block is actually grounded. Set meter to VDC (not continuity) and check from the block to negative post. Should be no potential between them. Then you'll know you are getting accurate readings. Same with a reference ground pin. Verify that ground to battery negative.

Saturated grounds happen. The meter doesn't put a lot of current out while checking continuity. When the ignition is on and everything is running then saturation might occur. What was ground before might no longer be 0V.

It's really common with swaps to neglect factory grounding. There's a reason for so many ground points. It's not just one to the block and one to the chassis.

[nocopnostopp]

I'm going to give you a pointer on using the meter. Checking continuity with tone is fine. Get in the habit of verifying voltages. For example, if you're checking from some pin to say the engine block, verify that the block is actually grounded. Set meter to VDC (not continuity) and check from the block to negative post. Should be no potential between them. Then you'll know you are getting accurate readings. Same with a reference ground pin. Verify that ground to battery negative.

Saturated grounds happen. The meter doesn't put a lot of current out while checking continuity. When the ignition is on and everything is running then saturation might occur. What was ground before might no longer be 0V.

It's really common with swaps to neglect factory grounding. There's a reason for so many ground points. It's not just one to the block and one to the chassis.

This is actually helpful. I will try some of this to verify the health of the grounds overall now.

[nocopnostopp]

I'm going to give you a pointer on using the meter. Checking continuity with tone is fine. Get in the habit of verifying voltages. For example, if you're checking from some pin to say the engine block, verify that the block is actually grounded. Set meter to VDC (not continuity) and check from the block to negative post. Should be no potential between them. Then you'll know you are getting accurate readings. Same with a reference ground pin. Verify that ground to battery negative.

Saturated grounds happen. The meter doesn't put a lot of current out while checking continuity. When the ignition is on and everything is running then saturation might occur. What was ground before might no longer be 0V.

It's really common with swaps to neglect factory grounding. There's a reason for so many ground points. It's not just one to the block and one to the chassis.

I checked G104 (right rail), G106 (right engine and PCM ground), and the MAF low reference voltage potential to ground when the car was on.

The voltage for G104 was about .04 Volts set on 20VDC (0045 set on 2000mVDC).

I measured G106 and MAF low ref to ground at a higher voltage (about ~.5VDC - DMM on 20VDC)

Then I looped G104 and G106 and that reduced the voltage on both G106 and MAF low reference voltage to the same .04 VDC on the 20VDC setting.

Is this too much voltage?

[SiriusC1024]

0.5V is too much voltage. That's not a good ground. 0.04V is ok.

[nocopnostopp]

0.5V is too much voltage. That's not a good ground. 0.04V is ok.

Thanks. Should I consider it solved with the looping of the two grounds?

Otherwise how would I improve the ground path from the engine block? Contacts are confirmed clean

[SiriusC1024]

Adding grounds doesn't hurt. Just make sure it's neat and permanent. I once had a goofy issue where turning on brights killed the ignition. The ground wire I added to the headlight circuit has been there for 4 years now.