just picked up this camaro. hoping someone could look through this calibration file and make sure its a quality tune. camaro_asfound1.hpt
thank you in advance for your time
just picked up this camaro. hoping someone could look through this calibration file and make sure its a quality tune. camaro_asfound1.hpt
thank you in advance for your time
Need to add a log also for review. The tune may tell you how it SHOULD run, but a log will tell you how it IS running.Originally Posted by Millspecauto
car doesnt have a wideband yet. can it be checked over for anything that is obviously not as it should be? i can post a log but it wont have afr just o2s
for instance. i see enrichment ramp in set at 2.0000. that seems excessive...
You can still tell a lot without wideband, just not everything.
It doesnt matter if its 1 or 4 on a na build.
For starters i would add .1 to the enrichment ramp out rate. That is way too much spark advance from 3400+ at wot. A load bearing dyno would never agree. I just picked up 13hp in a cammed ls3 going from 28-29* advance to 21-23 with it ramping to 25* toward the very top. The car was on 93 octane but you still should not run that much advance.
That's 130* water on an engine dyno timing.
You can try this. Much more realistic.
I still dont see it liking 28* at peak torque even in those conditions.
Funny you bring this up. The car has an electric waterpump. No thermostat or heater or ac. And cooling system appears to be running water/water wetter. No antifreeze. Takes a while just to hit 150-160 at cold start. Would this have anything to do with the timing being the way it is?
Well that's not good for it long-term.
Im curious why there is no flex sensor?
I just got the car. Previous owner had little information. I can see that it?s running virtual sensor.
No it's not, flex is disabled. 'Flex' means it adjusts based on alcohol %, this one is just tuned as if it will only ever have 85% ethanol in it and hope for the best.
Unless you're planning to use it as a trailered race car, this needs some mechanical sorting out (real water pump, real thermostat, E sensor, etc) and then tuned by somebody who knows what they are doing.
The winter blend of e coming up is going to make it pretty fat.
I live in south Texas, we don?t get winter blend. It?s always basically the same. And I?ve already sorted out the coolant temp issue by changing fan percentage.
I'd put a thermostat in it. All LS engines make more power and run better at 200 degrees than they do at 180.
EFI specialist
Advanced diagnostics, tuning, emissions
HPtuners dealer and tech support
email=[email protected]
My experience on the dyno, the cooler i can keep the ect the more power i make. Hotter oil makes more power. I would recommend a thermostat just for the purpose of keeping the temps stable and controlled. A 160* stat will make more power than the stock 187ish*, you will have reduced oil life and more sludge/buildup with the cooler stat unless you can run the dog piss out of the car and keep the oil hot.
My experience is the exact opposite. Only exception is the factory blower cars that like to run just slightly cooler than the NA motors.
Had one recently that was drastically different hotter than cooler. Buddy had just finished putting together an E85 combo (turbo), almost solid block, very small cooling system drag radial car. We started out trying to make pulls starting around 140-150 degrees knowing it would heat up quickly. The thing sounded and felt like a turd at that temp. Then after one pull I did another right after, with the starting temp over 180* and it made nearly 100 hp more and felt and sounded much cleaner. This was on a chassis dyno.
Oil temp makes a difference also, obviously, but higher coolant temps consistently make more power with these motors.
EFI specialist
Advanced diagnostics, tuning, emissions
HPtuners dealer and tech support
email=[email protected]
Reply With Quote