LSA w/adapter plates - how bad, and where?

[RDF1]

16 PSI with a 1.9L? What's the pulley ratio?

Its a CTSV lower and ill have to go see what the upper is.


CTSV Lower / 2.45" upper.

[Alvin]

There is no way I would do it. If Ed can get them right more power to him.

Not all but enough of them have had terrible tip in lean issues while cold. To the point where the car will backfire though the intake until it reaches say 130 F or so. Too much boost will collapse a LSA brick. I cringe to think of a intake backfire on one.

If your not careful about how you fix the transient, if you are able to in the first place.. it becomes a issue that those changes do not make it too rich on the same transients warm. Nothing I've ever done with LS controllers on BBC, LT1, SBC or any goofy intake combination has ever been as much of a wreck as some of these adapter plate builds.

Not for me.. I turn them away.

[blindsquirrel]

HOLY CRAP I just checked current prices and a CTS-V lid is going for $1500-1600??

[JayRolla]

HOLY CRAP I just checked current prices and a CTS-V lid is going for $1500-1600??

You can get a DMS sheetmetal lid for cheaper than that.
https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...l-lsa-lid.html

Or new ZL1 lid, reinforced brick, new sensors, gaskets and 12an fittings for $850.
https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...h-options.html

Used CTS-V lid and brick for $880.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23565449959...Bk9SR47808ayZA

You can find them for around $400-$650 in the CTS-V facebook classified. They have gotten pricier than the ZL1 lids because they clear hoods better in swaps.

[JayRolla]

There is no way I would do it. If Ed can get them right more power to him.

Not all but enough of them have had terrible tip in lean issues while cold. To the point where the car will backfire though the intake until it reaches say 130 F or so. Too much boost will collapse a LSA brick. I cringe to think of a intake backfire on one.

If your not careful about how you fix the transient, if you are able to in the first place.. it becomes a issue that those changes do not make it too rich on the same transients warm. Nothing I've ever done with LS controllers on BBC, LT1, SBC or any goofy intake combination has ever been as much of a wreck as some of these adapter plate builds.

Not for me.. I turn them away.

Its funny because my stock LSA with ID1050x have this lean tip in issue when cold. More so on e85 especially when really cold.

[Alvin]

Its funny because my stock LSA with ID1050x have this lean tip in issue when cold. More so on e85 especially when really cold.

This is like you might get killed pulling out in traffic.. It can be very very bad.

[blindsquirrel]

You can get a DMS sheetmetal lid for cheaper than that.
https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...l-lsa-lid.html

Or new ZL1 lid, reinforced brick, new sensors, gaskets and 12an fittings for $850.
https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...h-options.html

Used CTS-V lid and brick for $880.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23565449959...Bk9SR47808ayZA

You can find them for around $400-$650 in the CTS-V facebook classified. They have gotten pricier than the ZL1 lids because they clear hoods better in swaps.

I got one new for $600. I checked my Ebay bookmarked searches twice a day for more than two years and finally got lucky.

Attachment 151113

[RDF1]

This is like you might get killed pulling out in traffic.. It can be very very bad.

I just told my buddy to let it warm up before driving it.. Easiest way i know how to fix it haha

[marksrig]

I'm 16+ running 2.5 / 9.06

[karljamesb1]

5.3 lsa here. So far that's what I've done. Let it warm up then drive it. Also have that same lean throttle tip in

[blindsquirrel]

These are the only ones I have found that claim to fit the 3.78" bore. There are others, but when they say "small bore" they mean LS1, while others use that term to mean 4.00" minimum.
https://www.mastmotorsports.com/prod...-pair-w-valves (page URL says cathedral, but heads are actually rect port)

That's basically the same money just for cylinder heads as the cost of a complete junkyard L92/L94.

[blindsquirrel]

I finally picked up a set of these awful adapter plates (don't worry, they were cheap. I probably won't use them). Best I can approximate, this is what you'd see if you could look straight down through the injector hole.

injector_pov.jpg

This is the gasket opening location. In black is with the LSA gasket directly on the head. Red is where it ends up when the 1/2" spacer/adapter is added.

outline.jpg

The thinner the adapter is the lower the injector is and the closer it is to being able to spray into the port without hitting anything. I am probably going to use 1/8" aluminum* that'll just cover up the ports, and make a notch in the upper right of the head to give the injector a straight shot. There might be enough port wall thickness to accommodate the notch, or it may need to be welded on the outside of that section. I am not against welding if it needs it.

* I'd rather use something thinner like .063 but there is a lot of exposed port area below what the LSA/LS3 pattern covers.

[Alvin]

oh come on now.. that can easily be fixed in a tune.

lol

[blindsquirrel]

Forum is apparently broken (again), no idea what will happen when I click 'Post Quick Reply'... I just got out of 'you are being Rate Limited' Hell because I had the gall to click refresh after the link I clicked failed to fully load... it does this ALL THE DAMN TIME.

I would like to add another picture, but don't know who that might piss off, so I won't even try.

[smokeshow]

oh come on now.. that can easily be fixed in a tune.

lol

I did try found out quickly though that when you max out the puddle mass in the model it has a high tendency to backfire when spark is cut at low speed/high load. Which happens basically anytime someone with a gen4 shifts gears lol.

[Alvin]

The lean backfires these do while cold has got to be a guarantee that all these LSA IC bricks are now collapsed