1.26 volts has been solved, but how to keep the 8.1L motor running is the next concern.
I can rev with the throttle blade to keep it going but that's revving too high and up and down in RPM's, but that eventually dies and combustion temps are way too high.
Ceramic coated headers are starting to smoke.
I will have to start a new thread for that I guess.
It seems like this idea was too stupid, shoulda never went here.
Timing too low will make the exhaust glow, but actually give cooler temps in the chamber (since the fuel isn't completely burned by the time the valve opens). Are you sure-sure it's got high chamber temps? Or just speculating? Based on what?
Originally Posted by SiriusC1024
And if there's a question around spark timing not doing what it should, have you checked actual mechanical TDC versus what the PCM thinks it is? Do you have a timing pointer and a mark on the balancer, and a dial-back timing light?
Thanks.
I wrote in a stock 6.0L tune and it stayed running long enough to show 20? on my balancer. (It's got the graduations)
It hunts quite badly, but settled at 20 every time before it stalled after about 40 seconds.
Any idea what I need to change to smooth it out?
I have 36 LB white injectors, Bosch? I found some data by Frost, but if I plug that data in, it stalls after a few seconds.
Also, when I log, the fuel trims are not showing up on VCM.
Did I mention?:
10.47:1 with a 212/218 @115 LSA camshaft .552/.552 lift.
Aluminum GM Performance heads.
Pro Flo XX intake
FINAL AT 115 SEP. CAM DYNO.jpg
IAC not allowing enough air in?
Sounds like it's gasping for air.
Were you manually commanding a fixed timing of 20* when you checked it? That's what you need to do, command 20* and measure 20* means there's zero offset.
Yes, it was.
I removed the IAC, covered the hole with masking tape, and she fires up and stays running.
High cylinder temps though. Ceramic coating is smoking.
I gotta add fuel, using the data by Frost or WS6.
I have no idea how to manually command timing.
I'm a rookie at at this stuff even though I managed to set my fuel trims in my 5.3 nicely. That was about 5 years ago and I forgot everything, pretty much.
I think you're just using the wrong terminology. You can't tell anything about the temperature inside the cylinder from exhaust temps, in fact they go opposite of each other. If the timing is late and the burn isn't completed by the time the exhaust valve opens, EGT will skyrocket (because actual fire) and in-cylinder temps will fall, because the fuel is being burned somewhere that isn't the cylinder.
There are manual controls in the scanner.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Wrong terminology, me? Probably.
I'm not proud.
Just trying to describe anything I feel is not right.
I had a 160 thermostat in the intake. I pulled that out to get some coolant flowing immediately upon start up.
I'm gonna add fuel injector data next and try another start after I find the settings in the scanner.
Hopefully, the ceramic coating stops smoking.
I've made two other sets of stainless headers for other engines, had em coated, and never had a tiniest poof of smoke.
Without the IAC in the hole, it's running between 1300 and 1700 RPM's. 20 degrees still?
Can't buy one today, holiday.
Scanner wasn't showing any STFT's or KR.
It did show O2's in the red at 400's mv. I understand red is bad.
Color can be set to whatever you want it to be. Don't rely on color to tell you good or bad. Learn to read the actual data.
Below 450mV is leaner than stoich, higher than 450 is rich. Fuel trims aren't active until it goes to closed loop which is usually around 130*F.
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