2007 ly5 e38 super high idle, like scary high

[LS ROB]

Add VE, Dynamic Airflow, Cylinder Airmass, Intake Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) to your channels. You aren't really logging enough useful data but your timing is showing 55* which is too much.

**just looked at the VVE table and i may be wrong but ive never seen one like that. Needs Tuned. I'd start over on this one from a stock calibration if you have one. In the meantime, try this.


7-3_current_tune_starts_but_high_idle_cringer_reccomendations_plus_minor_edits.robhpt.hpt

**another thing. If you weren't fiddling with the throttle during that first part of the log, (before starting) then you do seem to be getting some type of RF/EM interference or possible bad throttle pedal or wiring issue.

[U W0t m8]

Add VE, Dynamic Airflow, Cylinder Airmass, Intake Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) to your channels. You aren't really logging enough useful data but your timing is showing 55* which is too much.

**just looked at the VVE table and i may be wrong but ive never seen one like that. Needs Tuned. I'd start over on this one from a stock calibration if you have one. In the meantime, try this.


7-3_current_tune_starts_but_high_idle_cringer_reccomendations_plus_minor_edits.robhpt.hpt

**another thing. If you weren't fiddling with the throttle during that first part of the log, (before starting) then you do seem to be getting some type of RF/EM interference or possible bad throttle pedal or wiring issue.

Smoke machine arrived - no leaks found. Pretty cool tool, though.

I was not touching the throttle during the beginning of the log, that fluctuation is it just sitting there. I ordered some RF/EM shielding and will be wrapping things this week.

Thank you for the insight (and the tune)! I'll load it up and report back, with the additional log channels recommended.

I will be using Cringers VVE/MAF calculator soon enough, but I don't just want to let it do it's thing and move on. I'd like to understand what is changing and the why behind it.

[Cringer]

Smoke machine arrived - no leaks found. Pretty cool tool, though.

I was not touching the throttle during the beginning of the log, that fluctuation is it just sitting there. I ordered some RF/EM shielding and will be wrapping things this week.

Thank you for the insight (and the tune)! I'll load it up and report back, with the additional log channels recommended.

I will be using Cringers VVE/MAF calculator soon enough, but I don't just want to let it do it's thing and move on. I'd like to understand what is changing and the why behind it.

No leaks. Interesting.

The VVE Assistant doesn't really do anything for you. It is just a more advanced VVE Editor and you can use it to see the impact of the changes that are made when you click the Calculate Coefficient button. It basically does a live compare between the old VVE and the new VVE and uses the fuel trim histo to let you know if you are on track or what areas need to be fixed. It saves a lot of additional driving around just to collect logs. But in the end, it is only as good as the data you feed it. And it certainly does not tune it for you. Like a powerful saw, you can use it to build an amazing building, or cut your leg off with it. Don't blame the tool, it is just doing what you told it to do.

[Cringer]

The tune says it is from a 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 1500 XL, what TB and throttle pedal are you using? Is it sourced from the same donor vehicle as the ECM?

[U W0t m8]

The tune says it is from a 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 1500 XL, what TB and throttle pedal are you using? Is it sourced from the same donor vehicle as the ECM?

Thank you for the explanation on the tool. So essentially, my tune still needs massaging to get it to the point where the VVE tool will be of use. Otherwise, garage in, garbage out?

The ecm, drivetrain, tb, pedal, everything came from the same vehicle. Bought it wrecked and pulled it all out, then sold the shell. I don't know for sure if it's the original pedal, or original anything, but it all came out as-is.

[Cringer]

Thank you for the explanation on the tool. So essentially, my tune still needs massaging to get it to the point where the VVE tool will be of use. Otherwise, garage in, garbage out?

The ecm, drivetrain, tb, pedal, everything came from the same vehicle. Bought it wrecked and pulled it all out, then sold the shell. I don't know for sure if it's the original pedal, or original anything, but it all came out as-is.

No. The risk of garbage in comes from the data in the log file. Starting VVE doesn't really come into play. Rough initial VVE shapes will increase the tuning time though.

[U W0t m8]

No. The risk of garbage in comes from the data in the log file. Starting VVE doesn't really come into play. Rough initial VVE shapes will increase the tuning time though.

I apologize if this information is in your video series, but roughly how long (in seconds) would i need it to be idling in order to have useful data for the tool?

[LS ROB]

The more cell hits, the better off you will be. I'd say a good 900 seconds would be helpful; Longer if you flash a tune then immediately log afterwards. Did that tune that i sent help with the high idle?

[Cringer]

I apologize if this information is in your video series, but roughly how long (in seconds) would i need it to be idling in order to have useful data for the tool?

In order to tune MAF or VVE, the engine needs to be at full operating temp. Cold starts and a few minutes of warm idling do not count. I also hate to be the bearer of bad news, but steady state idle is controlled by the MAF, not VVE.

BTW I define full operating temperature as 200*F or higher for engine OIL temperature. Many will balk, but your job as the tuner is to eliminate variables...tuning a cold/warm engine does not represent the actual running conditions you are tuning for. I bring this up since the engine is bolted to a run stand and not a vehicle.

[U W0t m8]

In order to tune MAF or VVE, the engine needs to be at full operating temp. Cold starts and a few minutes of warm idling do not count. I also hate to be the bearer of bad news, but steady state idle is controlled by the MAF, not VVE.

BTW I define full operating temperature as 200*F or higher for engine OIL temperature. Many will balk, but your job as the tuner is to eliminate variables...tuning a cold/warm engine does not represent the actual running conditions you are tuning for. I bring this up since the engine is bolted to a run stand and not a vehicle.

Ah, that does make sense, mostly. If idle is controlled by MAF, VVE calculations at this point serve no purpose? Will hooking up my wideband be of use to tighten up/ help MAF tuning more?

I should be able to get the engine to at least a normal running water temp - water pump, radiator, overflow tank, fans etc. are all hooked up. Only change/modification is the removal of the trans/oil cooler ports on the radiator, which should help oil stay a little higher.

[U W0t m8]

The more cell hits, the better off you will be. I'd say a good 900 seconds would be helpful; Longer if you flash a tune then immediately log afterwards. Did that tune that i sent help with the high idle?

I should be able run it that long on that stand, given it will idle.

Have not had a chance to get back to the garage yet and test out your provided tune. Too damn hot and family taking precedence, but hope to try it on Thursday after work.