I wanted to share this project I made that will display the AFR on the dash as water depth. It also has a function to control heating of the sensor based on engine RPM. If anyone wants to make changes or improve it feel free. https://github.com/wfmcnally86/seadoo_afr_display
Dude, that's so cool! So the development board is programmed to emulate the OE depth finder, and pulls spartan wideband data from canbus?
How is it/is it connected in parallel to the prolink/mpvi3 so you can log?
It's connected directly to the can output of the spartan and then hooked to the can bus of the ski. The board has two can bus circuits one for each bus. I was never able to get the spartan to log in standalone to the MPVI via can bus so I am just using the analog line. I plan on adding some diagrams to the page when I get a chance to make them up. I had a gauge on it last season and it was so hard to read in direct sunlight and saltwater isn't friendly to anything so it was basically a consumable item. This is definitely a huge upgrade and as a bonus my wife's RXT has a depth finder now after i was done with it for R&D
Ok,
Thats the conclusion Im coming to as well. Tech support know its an issue, I was told it was in the queue so to speak.
Any issues with using the analog vs can? I guess you just need a quick math function to define the voltage range for the afr and link it to a user defined channel. Any issues with speed on that?
It was super nice to just grab the canned profile in channels and plug it up, though. I need to quit being lazy��
Yeah i talked to tech support last year but honestly its a huge PITA for me because i am not around the ski during the week when TS is there so since it wasn't mission critical I decided to use the analog output. It also outputs the status bytes of the WB so you know its up to temperature and the analog output is valid for your log. I put an extension cable into the dry box in the center so now i can keep it all right in front of me. I haven't noticed any issue with the speed of the log.
Copy on the afr gauge. I have one sitting now, wish Id have seen your post sooner, much appreciate the work, I havent programmed a microcontroller since college, but I suppose there was abit of work reverse engineering the depth gauge, so much appreciated!
Ok,
I think Im tracking. I did the same, I have a hole in the dry box. Thats one thing I liked about can, I can see the sensor temp and status bit.
So you are saying I should get sensor status via lp analog and hp analog is the afr, but how are you pulling sensor status into vcm scanner? Is that using one of the analog inpus on the pro link?
Originally Posted by WFMCNALLY86
this is nothing new.
Dashpac was doing this exact same thing.
Please put up a link to the hardware. Looks like its 350 bucks from what I see.
WF Mcnally took the time to post about a canbus microcontroller solution he took the time to code, after what looks like a man-in-the-middle reverse engineer excursion, requiring him to buy the 500 dollar sea doo depth finder, and when it was all done and working, he posted the code as well as a link to the 50 dollar microcontroller board so we could all benefit.
I dont know about yall, but Im certainly appreciative. This forum needs more of that!
Thanks WFMcnally!
Last edited by Swampdonkey; 17 Hours Ago at 07:54 PM.
Your welcome. That's actually how I came up with the idea. I definitely didn't do anything new but I am a big believer in open source stuff and use a lot of it in my day to day life. That's why I wanted to share it with everyone. It was a decent amount of work but it was for for something I wanted. I actually contacted Dashpac last year and they got back to me but told me they don't make them anymore. I would have gladly paid the 350 bucks. Honestly thought I am glad they wouldn't do it because I think this is better solution because it allows me to wait to heat the wideband until the engine is running.
I'm not getting the status in hpt. It shows the status on the dash as 1 for waiting for trigger, 2 for heating, and when it is a status byte of 3 it will display the AFR. Then I know I can push the trigger button and have valid data.
Ah. Im going to have to look at it when the board comes in. Im sure I will have some questions then.
Im with you 100%. Always looking for new and better solutions, and love to share.
So are you connecting the esp32 board to the me17 with a brp square connector? If so, do you have a pinout?
One can bus to the WB and one to the Can bus on the ski. This can be done through the diagnostic connector as I believe there's an accessory wire in there. I hard wired mine into the fuse box for my can bus and fuses. I like to use as much factory stuff as possible because it is usually well designed. The terminals in the fuse block are GM metri-pack 280 terminals. The diagnostic plug and some other ones on the ski like it are Deutsch connectors. Very easy stuff to source and it will make a clean install. I will post up a wiring diagram of my setup on the GitHub page soon.
Ok. That sounds good. I think I will get another brp square and butcher it, just need the pinout. I want to make everything removable, Im powering everything through the battery charger plug thats fused and across the battery. Ill keep checking back on that github.
Thanks brotha!
The issue is, that will only really work a steady load. AFR changes way too fast when information is really needed. Too fast to read by eyes. See FB Group MLVHD to learn about understanding engine data.
Whittlebeast,
Let me get on that group. Thank you. So basically the can interface with the wb is necessary to get good data.
My original plan was to put the laptop in the front compartment and bluetooth.
I just want to clarify this setup is just a "gauge". At no point would I recommend anyone tune bye eye. My setup is no different than any other setup reading an analog input from the WB and using it to tune. My prolink is wired straight to the 0-5 output on the spartan 3. Whittlebeast you are 100% right, things happen way too fast to try and rely on what you see to tune it.
I was just about to say that. My first tuning experience, I completely forgot why I went with a can capable setup, I also forgot about voltage offset/afr accuracy. I just wired everything power to a single noco plug for easy removal.
It still beats the heck out ofone of those little aem gaugees zip tied to the handlebar to make sure afr isnt too lean during the run. Also will now have the ability to use slowheat2 on the spartan, wont work with my current setup, nobody on the network is sending an rpm signal, now I will have one from the board. Sensor should last a while, and Ill be back to the original laptop in the front cubby unless the other logging solution will work well with vcm editor.
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